Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Moisturizing balm “weeps” when it gets a little warm. Any solutions?

  • Moisturizing balm “weeps” when it gets a little warm. Any solutions?

    Posted by dmh0023 on May 27, 2020 at 4:48 am

    I have a facial balm formula that I LOVE the texture of, but I’ve noticed in the jars that it develops little beads of “sweat” when it’s warm, that disappear once it cools back down a bit.

    Ingredients:

    Shea Butter
    Squalane
    Cera Bellina
    Vitamin E
    Retinyl Palmitate
    Essential Oils

    I’m assuming I may need to up the cera bellina slightly, maybe it’s too soft? I loooove the texture, though. It’s aesthetically perfect and I’d like to preserve it if possible. Is there another additive that may be a good option?

    letsalcido replied 3 years, 10 months ago 5 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    May 27, 2020 at 11:47 am

    You need to add wax with a higher melting point to prevent that from happening. Cera Bellina is pretty soft in general and it’s melting point is around 65 if I am not mistaken. Have a look at candelilla or even beeswax. 

  • LuisJavier

    Member
    May 27, 2020 at 2:16 pm

    Maybe the essential oils are sweating out at the top? If this is the case, I think that the more the EO%, the worse the sweating would be. 

  • dmh0023

    Member
    May 27, 2020 at 8:18 pm

    You need to add wax with a higher melting point to prevent that from happening. Cera Bellina is pretty soft in general and it’s melting point is around 65 if I am not mistaken. Have a look at candelilla or even beeswax. 

    Thank you, this is good to know! I will get it to at least 65C  to add the CB. Do I need to hold it at this temperature for a certain period of time? 

    Maybe the essential oils are sweating out at the top? If this is the case, I think that the more the EO%, the worse the sweating would be. 

    Good call. I’ll have to check the next time I see it, but I have a sneaking feeling it isn’t. One of the main essential oils is very vivid and this doesn’t look especially bright.

  • dmh0023

    Member
    May 27, 2020 at 8:22 pm

    You need to add wax with a higher melting point to prevent that from happening. Cera Bellina is pretty soft in general and it’s melting point is around 65 if I am not mistaken. Have a look at candelilla or even beeswax. 

    Also, out of curiosity, if 65C is the melting point of CB, then if it melts it’s at least at 65C? I feel like it melts at a lower temperature than that. The product is clear and homogenous when it’s poured, and I usually pour at 48.9Cish. Does it need to be higher to ensure it’s fully incorporated, regardless of the product looking fully melted?

  • letsalcido

    Member
    May 30, 2020 at 11:46 pm

    @dmh0023 to clarify what ngarayeva001 said:

    Cera bellina has a melting point of 65C when pure. When you combine it with your oils, the melting point will change, your specific mixture of oils based on what you said melts well below 50C. By adding more wax or butters with higher melting points you can drive up the melting point of your mixture, thus preventing it from turning soft or partially liquid in your bathroom, car or purse at warm ambient temperatures.

    You can increase the percentage of cera bellina, or add other higher melting point waxes to it (like bees wax or candelilla wax). This is was ngarayeva001 recommended, not to heat up what you currently have to 65C.

    You should only need to heat up your ingredients enough to turn liquid and be able to mix them thoroughly. If 50C achieves that for your mixture, than that’s perfect. Just mix thoroughly for a minute or two.

  • klangridge

    Member
    June 1, 2020 at 2:21 pm

    @dmh0023 Is there any chance it could be condensation just from the air in the jar rather than an ingredient coming out of the product? Most obvious way to tell would be if it appears on the inside of the container or lid as well as on the product surface. I often find this happens with products placed on stability if they’re stored on a windowsill as they’re subject to more temperature fluctuations than the other conditions. 

    Probably isn’t, but just thought it might be worth checking before you have a play around with the formula!

  • dmh0023

    Member
    June 25, 2020 at 7:15 pm

    @dmh0023 to clarify what ngarayeva001 said:

    Cera bellina has a melting point of 65C when pure. When you combine it with your oils, the melting point will change, your specific mixture of oils based on what you said melts well below 50C. By adding more wax or butters with higher melting points you can drive up the melting point of your mixture, thus preventing it from turning soft or partially liquid in your bathroom, car or purse at warm ambient temperatures.

    You can increase the percentage of cera bellina, or add other higher melting point waxes to it (like bees wax or candelilla wax). This is was ngarayeva001 recommended, not to heat up what you currently have to 65C.

    You should only need to heat up your ingredients enough to turn liquid and be able to mix them thoroughly. If 50C achieves that for your mixture, than that’s perfect. Just mix thoroughly for a minute or two.

    Thank you for this. Oddly enough, when I let it reach 150F for a couple of minutes and then homogenized before cool down, I haven’t had any issues with the weeping since. I’m not sure why this is, as cera bellina has the highest melting point of all my ingredients. But there you have it!

    @dmh0023 Is there any chance it could be condensation just from the air in the jar rather than an ingredient coming out of the product? Most obvious way to tell would be if it appears on the inside of the container or lid as well as on the product surface. I often find this happens with products placed on stability if they’re stored on a windowsill as they’re subject to more temperature fluctuations than the other conditions. 

    Probably isn’t, but just thought it might be worth checking before you have a play around with the formula!

    I don’t believe it’s moisture. I’m actually unsure what it was. :

  • letsalcido

    Member
    June 25, 2020 at 11:58 pm

    @dmh0023 it seems like the materials weren’t mixed properly before, so you had areas with a lower melting point than others. Now you have a properly homogenous mixture, perhaps? 

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