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Mild Shampoo formula result in itchy scalp and greasy
Hello, Im new here. I stumbled across this amazing forum full of supportive and knowledgeable members while researching for formulation and ingredients. This gave me so much insight on shampoos! I’m currently working on a mild shampoo formula with turmeric extract and abyssinia crambe seed oil with active surfactant at 11% and PH 5.5. I’m trying to create a formula that soften and smoothen hair, mild and suits the tropical zone where its usually hot and humid. The shampoo was tested on a number of people and the reports were that it’s not clean enough and cause itchy scalp. This formula is base on existing, somewhat, green-washed natural shampoos.
Here is my formula
Water 55%
Guar Gum (Esaflor ECA) 0.50%
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate(SCMT 35) 8%
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (Jordapon SC8) 4%
Coco Glucoside (Lamesoft PO65 ) 3.5%
DLS 16%
COCAMIDE MIPA 6.5%
CTAC 1%
Phenoxyethanol 0.5%
Glycerin 2%
Fragrance 0.4%
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein 0.1%
Hydrolyzed Wheat 0.1%
Crambe Abyssinica Seed oil phytosterol esters 0.5%
Hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate 0.5%
Jojoba Oil 0.2%
Turmeric Extract Liquid 0.4%
Panthenol 0.5%
Result: opaque yellow texture, not too thick.
From trial on 20 people, 4 has reported itchy scalps immediately after rinse. And the majority felt that it was not clean enough. I suspect that it might be because of over excessive amount of oil ? Please guide me through the balance ratio of surfactant or introduce better alternative (considering to use CAPB and decyl glucoside).
Pros:
Not too aggressive. Hair felt soft, smooth and easy to comb
Con:
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Itchy scalp are reported immediately after rinse
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Itchy scalp are reported second day
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The formula does not clean the hair thorough enough
Ps. I’m not a chemist but I work directly with r&d department, they have previously made shampoos based on surfactant such as sls, DLS and coco betaine before.
Appreciate all comments and criticism, thank you in advance!
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6 Replies
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You are way over 11% AM. You should rethink your surfactants. MIPA is used between 0,5 and 1,5%. I guess that’s why the hair will feel greasy and the shampoo thin.
I suggest you first make a surfactant combo that works for you and then add the oils.
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The formula does not clean the hair thorough enough
That’s what you would expect with DLS.
Lamesoft PO65 at 3.5% is excessive. Use no more than 1%.
MIPA seems very high at 6.5%, I would have thought that 1 to 2% is more normal. -
also CTAC is cationic, and is inherently incompatible with the anionics
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@DAS Thanks for pointing that out, currently I’m trying to achieve 12% active surfactant. I misread the chemical name, it is not Cocamide mipa but instead Cocamide dipa that I am using (I couldnt source Cocamide Dipa in my country). The new surfactant combo R&D lab suggest use is a combination of the following;
DLS 10 x(30%)
as
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate 6 (30%) =1.8as
CAPB 4 (30%) = 1.2 as
SCI 4 (65%) = 2.6 as
Cocamide Dipa 2 (100%) = 2as
Decyl Glucoside 2 (55%) =1.1 as
Lamesoft 1 (40%) = 0.4 as
total=12.1 Active surfactantI am curious if this combo if it will be overkill with 7 surfactants?
@Belassi I agree DLS is not a very effective surfactant. Thank you for the comment on the percentage of Lamesoft PO65, I will reduce it to 1%. For Cocomide Mipa, my appology, it suppose to be Cocamide Dipa.
@Bill_Toge Thank you for pointing out the incompatibility of CTAC with anionics, I will find a substitute conditions hair. Do you have any suggestion for hair softening that is suitable for shampoo?
Thanks everyone for the feedback once the new surfactant combo is ready I will update. -
Yes, 7 surfactants is overkill
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The more you add the more chances someone will be allergic. This is a very important thing to consider when formulating.
For conditioning you can use polyquaternarium 7.
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