Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Matting agent in oil based Lipsticks

  • Matting agent in oil based Lipsticks

    Posted by Devesh327 on May 8, 2022 at 10:36 am

    Dear Formulators, 

    I manufacture oil & wax based lipsticks & have had success in market for a while due to my temperature stable formulations & excellent colors. However, I have this problem since i started manufacturing lipsticks. 

    My matte lipsticks have gloss, they shine on application. How do i reduce the gloss ? 

    p.s I have already tried Aluminium silicate, Fumed silica (this helps but not so much), Tapioca Starch etc. I have been able to suppress the gloss with these agents but once i start to increase their percentage, my lipstick turns tacky. 

    My formula is 
    De-Od Castor Oil 60 - 65 % 
    Tapioca starch - 5-10% 
    Fumed silica - 1-2% 
    Paraffin wax - 5-7.5% 
    Bees wax - 5-7.5% 
    Carnuba wax - 5-8% 
    Stearic acid - 0.2 - 0.8 % 
    Preservatives - TBHQ 0.25% 

    Please help me achieve the desired matte properties ! I am willing to help in your products that you have a problem with. 

    Thanks in advance !

    Fekher replied 2 years, 1 month ago 3 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • grapefruit22

    Member
    May 9, 2022 at 8:26 am

    I have no clue about lipstick formulation, so you can ignore my comment, but isn’t castor oil a little shiny on its own? Matte lipsticks have usually dimethicone as a base. You can try with addition of clay (kaolin, stearalkonium bentonite).

  • Fekher

    Member
    May 9, 2022 at 10:13 am

    @Devesh327  i guess for your goal we can play with things  

     Reduce ingredients (castor oil, carnauba wax) which cause glossy effect  69% as average in your formulation then it is soo logical to have glossy effect. 
      Then the idea of @grapefruit22 is good by adding clay for more matt finish. 

  • Devesh327

    Member
    May 10, 2022 at 8:52 am

    I have no clue about lipstick formulation, so you can ignore my comment, but isn’t castor oil a little shiny on its own? Matte lipsticks have usually dimethicone as a base. You can try with addition of clay (kaolin, stearalkonium bentonite).

    I forgot to mention that we work in affordable beauty sector in class C & D markets. Dimethicone is very expensive if used as a base. Thank you for your suggestions. I will try adding some clay to the formulation & revert back here. I have in the past used dimethicone in my formulation. Dimethicone does mattify the system, but it reduces payoff in the process, making the stick harder. 

  • Devesh327

    Member
    May 10, 2022 at 8:53 am

    Fekher said:

    @Devesh327  i guess for your goal we can play with things  

     Reduce ingredients (castor oil, carnauba wax) which cause glossy effect  69% as average in your formulation then it is soo logical to have glossy effect. 
      Then the idea of @grapefruit22 is good by adding clay for more matt finish. 

    Sure, I’ll add clay & revert here with the results soon. Also if you can, please tell me what i can replace the castor oil with ? Thank you. 

  • Fekher

    Member
    May 10, 2022 at 11:03 am

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