Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Mascara and Fibers

  • Mascara and Fibers

    Posted by beautysci on August 10, 2015 at 3:23 am

    When making a mascara with fibers (Nylon, Rayon, Cellulose, etc), do you homogenize the fibers after adding to the batch? What is your process of adding fibers to mascara? 

    Thank you. 
    Bobzchemist replied 8 years, 8 months ago 3 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    August 10, 2015 at 6:06 pm

    Mascara is one of those areas where I feel uncomfortable giving detailed advice - partly because unqualified people or even small businesses will not have the resources to adequately test for safety, and partly because I am one of the handful of people who have formulated mascara professionally.

    However, I will give a hint - How do you want your fiber distributed throughout your batch? Also, at what point in the procedure will you best insure that the fibers are distributed the way you want them distributed?  
  • beautysci

    Member
    August 10, 2015 at 6:19 pm

    Thanks Bob.

    I want the fibers to be distributed evenly throughout the mascara without any clumps while retaining the integrity of the fibers (not breaking them). There are conflicting ways I have been told to add the fibers: 1) Add the fibers to the end of the formulation while it is cooling under 45C while mixing. Can make a slurry with other ingredients that are going to be added at that point as to prevent fly-away of the fibers. 2) Put fibers in water phase as the the water phase will be the thinnest phase in the formulation and you will need less agitation (homogenizer) to break up the fibers so they are not clumped. 
    I am confused as to whether fibers can be homogenized without actually breaking the individual fibers. 
    end of mascara formula as the
    batch is cooling under 45C. It is good to create a slurr
    y with the fibers using other
    materials that are going to be added at that point i
    n the formulation to prevent fly away
  • KMYoungster

    Member
    August 29, 2015 at 3:01 pm

    Did you ever get an answer here? I am interested…

  • beautysci

    Member
    September 1, 2015 at 2:54 pm

    Nothing specific. 

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    September 2, 2015 at 1:28 pm

    The answer is, unfortunately, that no one knows. I don’t think that anyone has ever bothered to measure fiber length after homogenization. And since it would take either some very expensive equipment or weeks of lab time, I don’t think anyone ever will. 

    The only way you can figure this out is empirically. Does adding the fiber at the end give you any lumps or clumps in your finished product? Since you are presumably adding fiber to get an enhanced lengthening effect, and assuming that longer fibers will give you lengthier lashes, which way of adding the fiber gives you better lengthening?

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