Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Making different oils miscible with each other

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  • Making different oils miscible with each other

    Posted by amyelevens on December 5, 2022 at 4:20 pm

    Hello all. I’ve been following this forum for a while and am grateful for the formulating advice and expertise it has provided me with. I’m a beginner to the industry and I work for a contract manufacturing lab. We don’t deal much with PEGs and silicones or anything deemed “unclean.” 

    I’m trying to make an anhydrous formula with the benefits of hemisqualane (shine and quick absorption) but with more substantivity, and I’m also dealing with cost constraints. Hemisqualane is so light but it’s kind of non-negotiable for this formula, so I am having trouble making a formula that does not have oil “stacking.” 

    I’ve tried things like sucragel and hydrogenated vegetable oil, but those are only stable at viscosities much higher than the viscosity I am aiming for. I would like a viscosity between the lighter esters and castor oil. 

    Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction for making for instance, hemisqualane, castor oil, meadowfoam oil, grapeseed oil, and caprylic/capric triglycerides into a non-separating anhydrous oil? I can’t reveal percentages but I can say I would like to use around 40-60% hemisqualane, and the only thing that is necessary to the formula is the hemisqualane so I’m flexible in that regard. I have access to most any oils/esters. Castor is playing a large part because it is cost effective. I can’t use silicones. This is basically supposed to be a thicker, less runny alternative to phenyl trimethicone based hair oils. 

    Also I will preserve the formula I just haven’t settled on a system yet. 

    Thank you!

    RobboAU replied 1 year, 2 months ago 6 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • graillotion

    Member
    December 6, 2022 at 6:12 am

    @amyelevens if I understand you correctly…you are trying to increase oil viscosity?  So you would need an oil gelling agent.

    Why not try this, it has unlimited range….simply increase or decrease to change viscosity.  You will have to heat it in, but it will remain fluid once ambient temperature returns (unless you used too much).  ;)   A very magical ingredient, and Valerie at Simply Ingredients….well…just awesome.  All my newer formulas contain this ingredient.

    Butter Pearls (simply-ingredients.com)

    INCI: C10-18 Triglycerides

  • GeorgeBenson

    Member
    December 6, 2022 at 10:29 am

    @Graillotion can butter pearls increase oil viscosity without making the oil opaque or cloudy?

  • amyelevens

    Member
    December 6, 2022 at 2:29 pm

    @Graillotion

    am trying to increase viscosity but more importantly I’m just trying to have a liquid anhydrous formula with a homogenous appearance.

    Thank you I will try this! We have some C10-18 Triglycerides in the lab but not in pearl form. I’ll give this a try. 

  • graillotion

    Member
    December 6, 2022 at 8:45 pm

    @Graillotion can butter pearls increase oil viscosity without making the oil opaque or cloudy?

    Honestly, I do not know….I ONLY make emulsions. :)  You might read up on it from the mfg material on ULP.

  • markbroussard

    Member
    December 6, 2022 at 11:36 pm

    @amyelevens

    I would first try blending the oils you have mentioned, but do not include the Castor Oil and see if you get a uniform, homogeneous mixture.  Then add the Castor Oil and see if you get separation with the Castor Oil dropping to the bottom.  Once you have oil miscibility resolved, then you can address how to increase the viscosity of your uniform concoction.

  • jemolian

    Member
    December 7, 2022 at 1:00 am
    can butter pearls increase oil viscosity without making the oil opaque or cloudy?

    No. 

     

  • graillotion

    Member
    December 7, 2022 at 2:01 am

    jemolian said:

    can butter pearls increase oil viscosity without making the oil opaque or cloudy?

    No. 

     

    That is making an oil into a butter….somewhere near 20% inclusion…..to just bump some minor viscosity…???  What about at 1-2%?

  • jemolian

    Member
    December 7, 2022 at 2:52 am

    I tried at about 10% & 15%, but not sure if will be that opaque at 1-2%, probably cloudy. 

  • graillotion

    Member
    December 7, 2022 at 5:59 am

    jemolian said:

    I tried at about 10% & 15%, but not sure if will be that opaque at 1-2%, probably cloudy. 

    Just thinking out loud….as I made an emulsion with it today.  Granted I am generally using it at 1%….my concept is….it is what gum is in the water phase, to my oil phase.

    As I looked at my oil phase today….with roughly 1% of this ingredient…it was not cloudy at all (while heated)…. NOW, this of course does not mean…that once cooled…it might not be cloudy…..but since it went into an emulsion….I never get to see the end result….other than what is posted below.   :D  

  • jemolian

    Member
    December 7, 2022 at 6:17 am

    I also tested it at about 2.5-3%, specifically the butter pearls, i didn’t particularly observe significant thickening in my moisturizer ? But it seem to be breaking me out slightly compared to the other C10-18 Triglycerides.  

    Regarding the gelling agent for this post i’m wondering if the ones from MSR would be workable at what viscosity.
    https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/en/277-oil-gelling-agent

  • RobboAU

    Member
    December 12, 2022 at 2:48 am

    You could try using something like Dermofeel Viscolid to thicken your oil phase.

    It doesn’t give you a clear product, but 5% is apparently enough to gel sunflower oil. The TDS on prospector gives a good overview.

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