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Home Cosmetic Science Talk Cosmetic Industry Making a green lipstick . I am tryin to incorporate hibiscus powder and beet root powder

  • Making a green lipstick . I am tryin to incorporate hibiscus powder and beet root powder

    Posted by MariaRawlings on May 11, 2022 at 10:37 pm

    I mixed my veggie / flower powder into glycerin before adding into my lipstick base but it stays grainy without completely dissolving so i also added a little low hlb  emulsifier btms and still no great blend without graininess. Any suggestions to make this work?

    PhilGeis replied 11 months, 4 weeks ago 8 Members · 15 Replies
  • 15 Replies
  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 11, 2022 at 10:58 pm

    You will get better answers if you list all the ingredients in your formula.

  • MariaRawlings

    Member
    May 12, 2022 at 2:40 am

    I normally formulate everything but I had a ready made base in my stash of ingredients and when I checked the ingredients it appeared to be an ok formula. I do not know the percentage of each ingredient but this is the list of the lipstick base.
    castor seed oil
    cetyl stearyl alcohol,
    olive fruit oil,
    beeswax,
    hydrogenated castor oil,
    glycine soybean lipids,
    laurel laurate,
    carnauba wax,
    candellia wax.

    To this I was adding beetroot powder and hibiscus flower powder in a gram of glycerin .i also added 5 grams of btms-50 to the entire mixture.

  • MariaRawlings

    Member
    May 12, 2022 at 2:46 am

    Beetroot and hibiscus 0.50 mgs each

  • Pattsi

    Member
    May 12, 2022 at 8:51 am
  • Fekher

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 12, 2022 at 11:24 am

    Nice share @Pattsi

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 12, 2022 at 12:19 pm

    I’m not sure those colors would be legal for cosmetics in the US.

  • MariaRawlings

    Member
    May 13, 2022 at 12:55 pm

    I am incorporating natural beetroot powder and natural hibiscus powder.After more research I will try another approach to adding the pigments. 

  • MariaGarcia

    Member
    May 16, 2022 at 10:16 am

    Hi, Maria:

    Maybe I’m saying nonsense, but I think:
    1. You are trying to introduce powdered plant, not pigments, and it will not dissolve (even in water) because of the fibers it contains, it is normal that you notice graininess.
    2. The pigments contained in these plants are water-soluble, if I’m not mistaken. The other ingredients in your formula are fat, so they won’t color. Maybe you can check this with your provider.
    3. As far as I have experienced, the BTMS will not help you to emulsify properly the glycerin. I think you would need an aqueous phase.
    4. Another possible option would be to extract the pigment with water, concentrate it as much as possible, and formulate the lipstick as an ointment (which, unlike a real balm, can contain a small proportion of water, usually less than 5%). Here’s an example, albeit with fresh beets: 
    https://youtu.be/R2lwca_K9Rk
    I hope it helps.

  • Syl

    Member
    May 16, 2022 at 3:40 pm

    I would try this pigment based on beetroot:https://www.makingcosmetics.com/PGNA-BEETRT-01.html?lang=default

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 16, 2022 at 4:01 pm

    Just so you know, using beetroot as a color additive for a cosmetic product sold in the US is a violation of regulations.

  • Syl

    Member
    May 16, 2022 at 9:04 pm

    @Perry Then would this product be considered in violation? https://ethique.com/products/tone-it-down-shampoo
    This shampoo bar contains beetroot extract for blond and silver-fox hair to reduce yellow. It has been on the market for several years….

  • Syl

    Member
    May 16, 2022 at 9:47 pm

    By the way this company’s products were recommended by the NY Times Wirecutter as best shampoo for dandruff. https//www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/blog/ethique-shampoo-bar-review/?ds_c=71700000087595749&gclid=CjwKCAjw7IeUBhBbEiwADhiEMcVZ5HCS77wf12cKgklZlDZwiXr0l_seUBtANz_GhBs91eGLMMMiGBoCUOkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

    They were promoting their St Clements shampoo bar for dandruff containing citrus oil.  I wrote the Wirecutter explaining that dandruff shampoo was OTC in US because seborrheic dermatitis is a medical condition associated with hair loss and asked about clinical trial for citrus oils. It appears that they have removed the product from their store…

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 16, 2022 at 9:58 pm

    @Syl - No, that product would not be in violation. They use two approved color additives including ultramarines and iron oxides. The Beetroot extract is a marketing ingredient and not the primary colorant for the product.

  • Dr Catherine Pratt

    Member
    June 4, 2022 at 8:32 am

    Plus beetroot and hibiscus plant extracts are highly unstable and a nightmare to use as the primary colours.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    June 4, 2022 at 11:16 am