Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Makeup: Highlighter: Baked: Formulation Similarities

  • Makeup: Highlighter: Baked: Formulation Similarities

    Posted by Sponge on July 22, 2020 at 10:21 am

    The following formula is becoming extremely, extremely common amongst high-end highlighter/bronzer and now it’s even creeping into drugstore highlighter/bronzer. I mean, it’s exact, label to label.

    Mica, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Squalane, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tin Oxide, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Silica, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Dicalcium Phosphate, [+/- (May Contain): Ci 77491, Ci 77499 (Iron Oxides), Ci 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)].

    *Why such high HDI? I know it’s known as “marshmallow powder” and it’s considered great for pressability but - in a baked formulation? Are these brands baking AND pressing (post-bake) their intricate designs into the powders or are they filling, pressing and then baking?
    *They’re making an emulsion, clearly. What would you guess the percentages were like?
    *Could someone explain what’s going on with the carrageenan/xanthan gum in this type of formulation? (Molecular level would be ideal but generalized function is equally helpful.)
    *Any other information you’re willing to share about baked powders, I’d be happy to read about.

    Thank you!

    Sponge replied 3 years, 9 months ago 1 Member · 0 Replies
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