Cosmetic Science Talk

Cosmetic Science discussion form. For people who want for formulate cosmetics and get advice from other formulators around the world.

  • Lotion

    Posted by Lainee on July 28, 2017 at 5:38 am

    So here’s my formula:

    Water…………………………………..q.s to 100
    Ultrez-30……………………………..0.2
    EDTA……………………………………0.05
    Sodium Lactate………………………2.0
    Glycolic Acid………………………….1.0

    Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol……………….2.0
    Glyceryl Stearate…………………….2.0
    Isononyl Isononanoate…………….2.0
    Petrolatum…………………………….0.5
    Dimethicone………………………….1.0
    Ceteareth-20…………………………1.0
    Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride……..1.5

    TEA……………………………………..0.3
    Cabosil………………………………..0.5
    Tospearl………………………………2.0
    BTD 401………………………………1.0

    Euxyl PE………………………………0.3
    Vit. E………………………………….0.5
    Alpha-Arbutin…………………….0.2
    Suncat DE…………………………..1.5
    Fragance…………………………….0.95

    The problem here’s that it feels “sandy”. Is there any problem with the formula or the materials used? 

    Perry replied 5 years, 6 months ago 4 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • Perry

    Member
    July 28, 2017 at 12:28 pm

    There is nothing obvious to me that would cause that. Although by “sandy” I’m assuming you mean gritty.

    To figure it out, conduct a knockout experiment.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    July 28, 2017 at 12:53 pm

    Run knock outs with Tospearl and then BTD 401, or maybe you need homogenization of those powders.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    July 28, 2017 at 2:19 pm

    could be Cabosil

  • Lainee

    Member
    July 29, 2017 at 2:37 am

    @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ should I remove cabosil and tospearl? I feel that it is not needed. Although my superior insists. 

    I need to prove him wrong. 

    @Perry could I use veegum and ultrez together?

  • Lainee

    Member
    July 29, 2017 at 2:44 am

    @Chemist77 I think BTD 401 is used in creams and lotions. By any chance, is there any alternatives?

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    July 29, 2017 at 3:29 pm

    @Lainee  Yes i would remove particularly cabosil as it has no reason for being and both may be  your grit problem.I dont think homogenizer will do it.You need to mix in a ball mill to grind particles similar to paint coatings:using Hegerman grind gauge until smooth.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    July 30, 2017 at 3:40 am

    I think Dr. Bob has given a perfect reply, my mistake that I spoke of homogenizer. Can you check if uou can get a smaller size or maybe micronized if you are not willing to remove it. 

  • Lainee

    Member
    July 30, 2017 at 6:52 am

    @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ @Chemist77 Update: I removed Cabosil and Tospearl. Put BTD on a miller. The result is pretty fine to me.

    I heard my coworker uses the same formula but she keeps on adjusting TEA.  TEA is a pH adjuster right? 

    I have the desired pH with that percentage of TEA in my new formulation

  • Chemist77

    Member
    July 30, 2017 at 8:54 am

    That’s been used to neutralize for the carbomer here but it is a pH buffer as well.

  • Perry

    Member
    August 3, 2017 at 10:10 pm

    Usually, you neutralize Carbomer with a 1:1 ratio of TEA:Carbomer. But it really depends on the pH of your formula & other ingredients.