Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Lotion makes the skin dry and flaky

  • Lotion makes the skin dry and flaky

    Posted by Abdullah on March 26, 2021 at 3:27 am

    I made this lotion a few weeks ago. 20 people have used it on there faces. 19 of them liked it and said it moisturizes the skin very well and our skin looks younger. 1 person who had dry skin said it made my face very dry and flaky, like dandruff in face. He said i have used this lotion around 10 times and it made my condition like this from first use.

    This is the formula
    Which one of these ingredients can couse this and why?

    Petrolatum       %5
    Sweet Almond oil   %1
    Polyglyceryl 6 distearate   %2.5
    Glycerin            %20
    EDTA            %0.1
    Salicylic acid    %2
    Sodium hydroxide   %0.58
    Xanthan gum    %0.5
    Lavender eo    %0.2
    Glyceryl Caprylate   %1
    Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate   %0.2
    Citric acid
    pH 5
    RedCoast replied 3 years, 2 months ago 2 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • RedCoast

    April 8, 2021 at 2:12 am
    It’s the 20% glycerin, that’s why. And the lack of occlusives.
    Glycerin is a very effective humectant, but if you don’t have enough occlusives, it can draw the water out of your skin and cause dryness.
    Reduce glycerin to <5%, bump up the emollients and occlusives, and go from there.
  • Abdullah

    April 8, 2021 at 2:20 am

    @RedCoast i have %5 petrolatum that theoretically can prevent %98 TEWL. Isn’t that enough? 

  • RedCoast

    April 17, 2021 at 5:18 pm

    Abdullah said:

    @RedCoast i have %5 petrolatum that theoretically can prevent %98 TEWL. Isn’t that enough? 

    Sorry for the late reply. Life got in the way.
    No, 5% petrolatum isn’t enough. Emulsifiers will reduce it’s effectiveness, and for any occlusive in general.
    If you look at any commercial glycerin-rich lotion, you’ll find most of them have 5-10% glycerin and 5-10%+ petrolatum and 5%+ dimethicone, mineral oil, etc, for an oil phase of 25-35% or so. A small amount of wax can help with the occlusion and the thickness of a lotion or cream.
    Glycerin is such an effective humectant, you don’t need very much to hydrate the skin. Try 5% glycerin and experiment with a much higher oil phase.

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