Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Looking for a dry medium/high polarity ester or oil

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  • JonahRay

    Member
    September 18, 2019 at 3:45 pm

    Isoamyl laurate and coco-caprylate/caprate are pretty light feeling with quick absorption.  

  • EVchem

    Member
    September 18, 2019 at 5:39 pm

    I used the isoamyl laurate that’s not bad I just don’t have a ton of it
    I do have the coco-caprylate just not sure if it’s polar enough, but best way to find out is to try it! Thanks

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 18, 2019 at 6:49 pm

    I like coco caprylate and I recently bought butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, which is quite nice polar medium to light. Butylene glycol in that list but the ester isn’t (if it works that way).

  • EVchem

    Member
    September 19, 2019 at 12:47 pm

     @ngarayeva001 I hope so! I’m being a little cheeky  (the list says no polyamide-8 so I’m using polyamide-3  for my oil gel)

  • JonahRay

    Member
    September 19, 2019 at 4:45 pm

    Wow I can’t believe the list of unacceptable ingredients at Whole Foods. I never checked theirs out.. WOW

  • OldPerry

    Member
    September 19, 2019 at 4:57 pm

    @JonahRay - and the list was put together by someone who clearly doesn’t know much about chemistry!  Cetrimonium chloride is out but you can use Cocotrimonium Chloride.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 19, 2019 at 7:17 pm

    And why is coco caprylate better than octyldodecanol? Both are esters. Both don’t grow on trees.

  • Pharma

    Member
    September 19, 2019 at 7:32 pm

    Octyldodecanol is a Guerbet alcohol and the product of a harsher chemical reaction using a less “eco-friendly” catalyst and commonly also requires solvent extractions whereas the synthetic route for coco caprylate is a tick shorter and involves “greener” reaction steps (though often also a not so “eco-friendly” catalyst) and can be done without solvents. For both, the raw materials grow on trees (or on grainfields) ;) . BTW, in both cases, the used catalysts are added in small amounts and recycled ;) .

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