Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Looking for a cosmetic fomulator with experience in azelaic acid in 15%

  • Looking for a cosmetic fomulator with experience in azelaic acid in 15%

    Posted by Sofie on April 21, 2024 at 8:59 am

    I am having issues with finding the right azelaic acid for making a lotion or emulsion must be 15% for an ance line. ( EU based )

    Myself haven’t got enough experience ( with 15% to dissolve proper and still have enough space to include actives ) and the labo neither…

    Anybody who is experiences in working with AZA and can guide/help me?

    Sofie replied 3 weeks, 4 days ago 3 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • fareloz

    Member
    April 22, 2024 at 6:36 am

    Such products are not dissolved AA, but a dispersion of very fine AA in the base.

    • Sofie

      Member
      April 22, 2024 at 9:54 am

      hello, thank you for answering. can you explain a little bit more please?

      • fareloz

        Member
        April 23, 2024 at 3:56 am

        Not sure what I can say more here. In products like Skinoren and other similar where AA percentage is 10%+ the acid is not dissolved in some base. Instead a very tiny powder of AA dispersed in the base. The powder is so fine. so tiny and dispersed so evenly that you can’t notice with your eyes and feel with your fingers that it is not dissolved.

        • Sofie

          Member
          April 24, 2024 at 5:47 am

          thank you

  • Quiny11

    Member
    April 22, 2024 at 12:59 pm

    15% azelaic acid prescriptions in the US are mostly suspensions of micronized azelaic acid (e.g., Cosroma)-this requires a basic thickener with yield value to prevent sedimentation (e.g., carbomer) and chaotropic agents like ~10% propanediol and some surfactant. You may be able to achieve a ~10% level of dissolution using very high levels of ethoxydiglycol and other glycols-your aim would be to create an almost anhydrous formula. Azeloyl glycinate derivatives would also allow high dissolution, but you would have to keep the pH above 7 probably to keep it from precipitating.

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