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Looking for a cosmetic fomulator with experience in azelaic acid in 15%
I am having issues with finding the right azelaic acid for making a lotion or emulsion must be 15% for an ance line. ( EU based )
Myself haven’t got enough experience ( with 15% to dissolve proper and still have enough space to include actives ) and the labo neither…
Anybody who is experiences in working with AZA and can guide/help me?
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5 Replies
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Such products are not dissolved AA, but a dispersion of very fine AA in the base.
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hello, thank you for answering. can you explain a little bit more please?
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Not sure what I can say more here. In products like Skinoren and other similar where AA percentage is 10%+ the acid is not dissolved in some base. Instead a very tiny powder of AA dispersed in the base. The powder is so fine. so tiny and dispersed so evenly that you can’t notice with your eyes and feel with your fingers that it is not dissolved.
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thank you
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15% azelaic acid prescriptions in the US are mostly suspensions of micronized azelaic acid (e.g., Cosroma)-this requires a basic thickener with yield value to prevent sedimentation (e.g., carbomer) and chaotropic agents like ~10% propanediol and some surfactant. You may be able to achieve a ~10% level of dissolution using very high levels of ethoxydiglycol and other glycols-your aim would be to create an almost anhydrous formula. Azeloyl glycinate derivatives would also allow high dissolution, but you would have to keep the pH above 7 probably to keep it from precipitating.
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