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Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Long lasting effect

  • Long lasting effect

    Posted by Eli on March 9, 2016 at 4:12 pm

    Hello everyone, 

    How can I achieve a long lasting effect claim. I guess it would depend on the application but for example to create a long lasting moisturizing ? I bought one in the market but i cannot seem to find which ingredient is creating this effect. 
    Could be create it with a polyquaternium that has film forming capacity? may i use a carbomer with very slow time of release of the emollient. ? Does that work on skin or only in pharmaceuticals.. ?
    I guess my confusion is because i cannot seem to find a good definition of the mechanism of long lasting. 
    Thank you,!!
    jrusso531 replied 7 years, 2 months ago 5 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • Belassi

    March 9, 2016 at 6:13 pm

    It’s just a meaningless buzz word.

  • Mike_M

    March 10, 2016 at 1:58 pm

    Eh I would be careful calling it a buzzword, we have had consumer groups come after us for specific hour claims. We had claim substantiation but without it we would have run into issues. I think “long lasting” you’d be okay but if you start getting specific, i.e. 24-48 hour protection, moisturizing make sure you have something to back that up.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 11, 2016 at 6:08 pm

    We had a product that claimed “24 hour moisturization.”  To prove it we did a study where we measured skin prior to product use, then immediately after to show moisturization.  We had the people come back the next day and measured their skin and showed that there was still some moisturizing effect beyond what their skin was prior to the study.  There was also a control group who got no treatment.

    The study couldn’t be called scientifically rigorous and it’s unlikely that any consumer would notice the difference but the claim was valid and passed the standards of television (which is the toughest advertising standards to pass).
    As far as the ingredients go, yes, you need a film former and a good slug of Petrolatum to get the skin moisturized. Carbomer doesn’t do much in terms of moisturization.
  • Eli

    March 14, 2016 at 7:23 am

    Thank you for this info. I might use polyquaternium 37 as a first candidate and as you mentioned Perry a lot of petrolatum. When I mentioned carbomer I was imaging that they will trap the moisturizing ingredient and release it slowly in the skin. But I guess once the cream is spread the micro gels of carbomer will completely break at once. Thank you again !

    Perry in that test, how did you measure the moisturizing effect on the skin. ? Which method. Thanks.

  • Mike_M

    March 14, 2016 at 1:20 pm

    Check The Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology there are several methods described for measuring skin moisture. Most commonly it is via TEWL

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 14, 2016 at 2:05 pm

    We used either a TEWL meter or a Corneometer.

  • jrusso531

    March 21, 2016 at 8:36 pm

    are you sure there isn’t an active ingredient present in the formula you purchased? I’m sure that’s where they are borrowing the marketing from.