Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Lipstick pigment running?

  • Lipstick pigment running?

    Posted by abh032000 on August 9, 2020 at 6:16 pm

    Hello, what is a natural or naturally derived plant based ingredient that will help keep pigment in place in lipstick? 
    2 issues:
    Currently, in my formula the pigment is running towards the outer edges of the lips. I have a lot of butters and oils - is that the culprit? Is the solution to add more wax?
    Also the pigments are water soluble…what do I use to keep the pigments from breaking down once the wearer drinks liquids?

    EVchem replied 3 years, 10 months ago 6 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • Farrukh

    August 10, 2020 at 1:16 am

    Use oil soluble pigment

  • abh032000

    August 10, 2020 at 1:24 am

    it’s both oil soluble and water soluble. The pigment has to stay. 
    That problem aside…is there anything naturally derived I can use to help the color not run towards the outer edge of the lips and stay? Thank you!

  • Winnie

    August 10, 2020 at 2:13 am

     add 1~2% w/o emulsifier(but the lipstick may became softer, so you’ll have to add more wax)

  • abh032000

    August 10, 2020 at 1:33 pm

    Hi @Winnie
    what does the w/o emulsifier do in an anhydrous formula? Do you have a recommendation for it that’s vegan and natural? Thank you

  • EVchem

    August 10, 2020 at 5:07 pm

    Maybe kester wax k-60 P (polyhydroxystearic acid)?

  • ngarayeva001

    August 10, 2020 at 11:31 pm

    Are you referring to the product separating of not being long lasting when used? Hard to tell without a formula.

  • Winnie

    August 12, 2020 at 3:22 am

    w/o emulsifier could make the pigment disperse better in wax and oil,I think it could make the situation you met better.Base on your description, the pigment seems don’t have a well compatibility with wax and oil.
    As for vegan and natural, I’m wondering if you use plant oil for your 100% source of oil.If it is, then that will be the problem of bad compatibility.
    I’ve add Olivem 900 in my stick formula for stability, but I’m not sure if it’s the ingredient meets your definition of nature.But it’s plant derived .

  • AleH

    August 12, 2020 at 1:29 pm

    Olivem 900 according to ISO 16128 has a NI/NOI=0/1 (natural index=0/natural origin index=1 or 100%) that should fit as a natural origin ingredient.

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