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Lecithin/Lysolecithin: Anyone with experience using this component?
I realize it’s a logistical challenge to use either of these for an o/w formulation, but outside of that, can I ask the upsides to using it (other than it being all-natural)?
Is the dry-down finish ever matte, or most always shiny, when using this as your sole emulsifier?
Thank you.
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6 Replies
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Depends on the quality you’re using. Non-deoiled non-hydrogenated will tend to be more shiny.The two have their benefits as much as any other emulsifier, it all boils down to your expectations and the type of formulation you’re using. -
suswang8: lysolecithin is the more specialized phospholipid surfactant, nice if you are fixin’ to make liposomes or something of that sort that are to penetrate stratum corneum. Straight, cheap soy lecithin is mainly phosphatidyl choline and a powerful o/w emulsifier capable of an oil load of 40:1. Can’t comment on the shiny thing.
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@chemicalmatt Aren’t you confusing one with the other?Lecithin is for liposomes but may also be used for either o/w, w/o, lamellar, or mixed type emulsions. Depending on origin and quality, residual oil (liquid lecithins) and/or phosphatidylcholine are its main constituent but PE may be present in nearly equal amounts. ‘Dry’ or granulated lecithin does not contain considerable amounts of oil.Lysolecithin is produced by ‘digesting’ lecithin with phospholipase A and is a pure o/w emulsifier. These are available with or without oil and/or free fatty acids though the unrefined version is more common.
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Pharma said:Depends on the quality you’re using. Non-deoiled non-hydrogenated will tend to be more shiny.The two have their benefits as much as any other emulsifier, it all boils down to your expectations and the type of formulation you’re using.
Thank you.
I definitely want to use only non-hydrogenated . I am not sure about the oiled/non-oiled aspect.
I would be using it as my sole or primary o/w emulsifier. It sounds like you are saying I might be better off trying the powder (non-liquid) variety if I wanted a more matte finish, or not necessarily?
@chemicalmatt I might actually go the route of regular, liquid soy lecithin, unless I am convinced otherwise. 🙂 I am still not sure if using lysolecithin (vs lecithin) is better for my purposes.
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If you want to use it as sole emulsifier, then you have to go with lecithin.On the other hand, lysolecithin penetrates better but there you should use it as co-emulsifier…From what I hear, pure lecithin emulsions don’t feel that great and I believe that to be the case too though I never used it solo. In my limited experience and based on hearsay, it works especially nice as co-emulsifier for lamellar network formulations.The matt finish calls either for hydrogenated lecithin or use lecithin alongside a matt finishing primary emulsifier. The liquid versions contains about 50% oil and that may feel greasy or be shiny. It is likely either residual oil (soy or sunflower) or added safflower oil. On the other hand, non-hydrogenated will penetrate better but leaves less residue though lecithin in general is not a fast penetrating compound. Well, on my skin it still vanishes better than petroleum jelly and my skin has more issues with liquid versions than dry ones.
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Thank you, all.
Update for anyone with interest:
The company Cosphatec, mainly known for its premium xanthan gums, views its lysolecithin as a co-emulsifier that functions as a sole emulsifier when used at a 4% concentration. I have used it at 4% in a hand cream with 20% oils, and it feels very nice (silicone-like, as some have said).
For facial moisturizer purposes, I can confirm that 1% soy liquid lecithin creates a fairly shiny/dewy finish, and if you add 1% lysolecithin to the same preparation (i.e., alongside the lecithin), the product becomes almost completely matte.
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