Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Leave in conditioner formula

  • Leave in conditioner formula

    Posted by Mangogirl on March 30, 2020 at 2:27 am

    Hello there everyone!  I would love some advice on a formula I am developing. I am trying to create a leave in product that will detangle, moisturize, and repair hair. What I have learned as I have been experimenting is that procedure is also very important, and can make or break what you are trying to achieve. So I will include that for critique as well. 

    Phase A
    86.38% Distilled water(marshmallow/lavender infused tea)
    1% glycerin 

    Phase B
    2% Almond oil 
    2% Baobab oil
    2% Mango butter
    1.2 % Muru Muru butter
    1.88% Btms-50
    0.75% Emulsifying Wax NF

    Phase c
    1% Baobab hydrolyzed protein
    0.80% Pineapple fragrance oil
    0.70% Optiphen plus 

    I used an emersion blender to combine Phase A and B.
    Left to cool for some time.
    Blended again for 2 minutes.
    Left to cool again.
    Added phase C blend again for two minutes.
    Left to set for about 2 hours.

    I just want to pretty much know how stable this formula is and if there is enough preservatives. Also are my oils to high? I do like the creamy texture but I wouldn’t mind it being a tad thinner. Do I really need to incorporate emulsifying wax NF? Any other advices is greatly welcomed. Thank you in advance.
    xoxo Mangogirl

    Cafe33 replied 4 years, 2 months ago 4 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • letsalcido

    April 3, 2020 at 12:41 am
    I’m no expert here but I’d throw a rheology modifier in your water phase to help stabilize the emulsion. xanthan gum, or a modified cellulose.

    Are you trying to achieve a sprayable, lotion or cream consistency leave in conditioner?
    Also, I do think oils are pretty high. It may leave the hair pretty heavy. 


  • cmgrimmace

    April 3, 2020 at 5:10 am

    Almond oil is heavy and greasy. There are much lighter carrier oils.
    Preservative % is good. That’s assuming you’ve washed and sterilized thoroughly. I know what you’re thinking, you don’t want your product to get mold. If everything is washed thoroughly, optiphen is good at 0.5%. Don’t let the fear of “enough preservative” paralyze you.

    I’d add some propylene glycol too. Unless someone disagrees. 

    This recipe seems heavy to me for a leave in conditioner. 

  • Cafe33

    April 3, 2020 at 8:12 pm

    You have some expensive oils/butter in your formula but the BTMS is actually what will work best.  I would remove the emulsifying wax and increase the BTMS-50 to 4%. I would also lower the oils and butter to the 1% range. 

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