Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Jaguar HP 105 (HP Guar) Viscostiy/ Thermal Stability

  • Jaguar HP 105 (HP Guar) Viscostiy/ Thermal Stability

    Posted by evchem2 on November 9, 2023 at 10:12 am

    I have been experimenting with Jaguar HP 105 (Hydroxypropyl guar) for some various leave-on cosmetics and I noticed viscosity of my samples decreasing over time. So I made a 1.5% solution of Jaguar HP 105 where I adjusted the pH with Citric from ~10 to ~7 and used 0.7% euxyl pe 9010 (phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin) to preserve, then placed the sample in a 45C oven for 2 weeks. The viscosity across almost all shear rates dropped but it was especially noticeable at low rates (almost 50% reduction) and visually the sample looks thinner. I haven’t worked with HP guar much but is it normal to see a decrease that quickly, or is that an indicator of a bad batch/improper processing?

    abdullah replied 2 weeks, 1 day ago 3 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    November 10, 2023 at 8:45 am

    @evchem2 hydroxypropyl guar is really great to work with, more formulators should, and it is good you mentioned a visual decrease in viscosity. The one thing I can share is many guars are not long-term stable with glycols including glycerin. I recall needing to use “glycol compatible” HP guar in the past. There may be other materials in your formulations that break the saccharide chain down to size, the cause of viscosity drop. E.g. Guars are stable with electrolytes until the point they are not. Here’s a hack if you can stand it: add a little sodium borate solution and watch it cross-link into a gummy - just like that.

    • This reply was modified 2 weeks, 5 days ago by  chemicalmatt.
    • evchem2

      Member
      November 10, 2023 at 9:40 am

      @chemicalmatt thank you! That’s wild, I didn’t include that I had 3% glycerin in the system (the only other component) because I assumed it would be negligible…I recall a saying about assumptions that seems relevant. Any idea the reasoning behind the incompatibility?

      Thanks for the tip about the borate, not sure how client will feel about it but good to have in the toolbox

      • abdullah

        Member
        November 13, 2023 at 7:26 pm

        What is great about it? Emulsion stabilizing, viscosity increase, foam increase, skin feel or something else because it is not an inexpensive ingredient.

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