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Is there any chance the LOI is correct?
https://www.nyxcosmetics.gr/powder-puff-lippie-lip-cream/NYX_586.html
Its about a liquid lipstick with powdery afterfeel that I have been working on.
The problem is that in the LOI I see silicons, water(!), and oil, without anything giving emulsifying properties.
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 is an alternative of natural lanoline(some weak emuls.property maybe), not strong enough in my opinion to hold an emulsion of that type..
Is there anything that I am missing here?
Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
Thank you in advance -
10 Replies
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Maybe they are using the dimethicone crosspolymer and the hydrogenated polyisobutene to suspend and physically separate the phases? I don’t have experience in color cosmetics so that’s just my guess
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I can’t see the ingredient list in your link. Can you copy and paste it here?
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Yes of course
LOI:
Dimethicone, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Water/Aqua/Eau, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Glycerin, Alumina, Aluminum Benzoate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Barium Sulfate (CI 77120), Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance/Parfum. MAY CONTAIN / PEUT CONTENIR (+/-): Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, -
@Perry @EVchem HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE improves the thickness of the system, I would say this is it, if it contained only silicones and oils..
But water. Weird. -
The dimethicon crosspolymer may have emulsifying properties.
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@mayachem The Dimethicone crosspolymer + Dimethicone is probably Dowsil 9041, which provides (some of) the thickening effect.
I am uncertain what you mean by improves the thickness (Reduces/increases) but Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is pretty much sold as a D5 substitute and wouldn’t provide much thickening, it would, however, increase the volatility of the product and assist to the dry-powder feeling.
As for the original question; Yes it may be correct, the Dowsil functions as a W/O emulsifier.
Edit: @Doreen beat me to it…
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Thank you very much,appreciated your comments.
I will supply the lab with a sample of dowsil 9041,I think I have got in touch with this ingredient,its quite viscous in gel form. -
@Sibech
Maybe there is confusion with polyisobutene (not hydrogenated), which can be used as oil thickener. -
Not an emulsion at all, but an oil suspension utilizing alumina and aluminum salts. I’ll bet the water content there is<1.0%.
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@chemicalmatt you are probably correct on the formula being more of a suspension (I was a bit too quick and read w/o emulsification and missed that dowsil was written to thicken w/o emulsions). Could you elaborate on how the aluminium and salts thereof would aid in the suspension?
I am more qurious why it’s there as the alumina salts have a low solubility… processing purposes and reduce water draw from skin due to glycerin?