Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Is THDA more potent than L-AA as some brands claim?

  • Is THDA more potent than L-AA as some brands claim?

    Posted by Anonymous on February 19, 2020 at 12:35 pm

    There are some brands that make claims about THDA being more potent than L-AA:

    1. Medik8 claims that 3% of THDA = 12% LAA.
    2. PTR claims that THDA is 50 (!!!!) times more potent than LAA.

    How is that possible? How can a derivative be more potent than what it transforms into? I’ve been researching these claims for quite some time but except for the brands’ own words, I didn’t find anything concrete.

    Another question I have is that is it even worth it to add 20% (The Ordinary) or 35% (Allies Of Skin) THDA to a formula? It seems way overkill and quite expensive. I haven’t found anything that says it’s harmful at such percentages but couldn’t find anything that says these percentages are even beneficial.

    Edit:
    I forgot to add that one of the manufacturers of THDA (Barnet) also claims that BV-OSC delivers pure Vitamin C 50 times better than ascorbic acid.

    EVchem replied 4 years, 5 months ago 1 Member · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • EVchem

    Member
    February 19, 2020 at 6:24 pm

    If you haven’t seen barnet’s presentation, they do  mention they tried a study at 30% that was more effective than 10 (but it looks like the sample size was 10 people…) 

    you could try reaching out to them for substantiation on their claims, my guess is it’s some clever wording  that the BVOSC penetrates better than LAA, not necessarily more effective

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