Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Skin Ingredients List Review

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  • Ingredients List Review

    Posted by mrlv90 on July 21, 2020 at 5:32 am

    Looking for any ingredients that are red flags:

    Rose Flower Water (Rosa Damascena), Organic Aloe Leaf Juice (Aloe Barbadensis), Emulsifying Wax (Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60), Glycerin, DMAE Bitartrate (Dimethylaminoethanol Bitartrate), Meadowfoam Seed Oil (Limnanthes Alba), Vitamin E (Tocopherol), Sunflower Seed Oil (Helianthus Annuus), Vitamin C (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate), Carrot Seed Oil (Daucus Carota Sativa), Hyaluronic Acid, Coenzyme Q10 (Ubidecarenone), Provitamin A (Beta Carotene), Vitamin A Palmitate (Retinyl Palmitate), Alpha Lipoic Acid (Thioctic Acid), Provitamin B5 (DL-Panthenol), Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), Organic Sugar Cane Extract (Saccharum Officinarum), Organic Bilberry Fruit Extract (Vaccinium Myrtillus), Organic Sugar Maple Extract (Acer Saccharinum), Organic Orange Peel Extract (Citrus Sinensis), Organic Lemon Peel Extract (Citrus Limon), Organic Cranberry Fruit Extract (Vaccinium Macrocarpon), Organic Alcohol, Castor Oil (Ricinus Communis), Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

    Thank you.
    letsalcido replied 4 years, 5 months ago 3 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • letsalcido

    Member
    July 21, 2020 at 6:57 am

    @mrlv90 what kind of “red flags” are you looking for?

  • OldPerry

    Member
    July 21, 2020 at 12:35 pm

    This isn’t a proper ingredient list.

    1. Rose Flower Water should not be the first ingredient.
    2. The term “organic” has no place in an ingredient list.
    3. Trade names should not be used in an ingredient list (e.g. Emulsifying Wax)
    4. There are too many instances of inappropriate use of a parentheses. For example, Provitamin B5 (DL-Panthenol) should simply be Panthenol.

  • mrlv90

    Member
    July 21, 2020 at 7:44 pm

    @mrlv90 what kind of “red flags” are you looking for?

    For example, Lemon Peel Oil is slightly controversial as it acts like an irritant when applied topically. But is lemon peel extract the same? If not, how is it different? 

  • mrlv90

    Member
    July 21, 2020 at 7:47 pm

    Perry said:

    This isn’t a proper ingredient list.

    1. Rose Flower Water should not be the first ingredient.
    2. The term “organic” has no place in an ingredient list.
    3. Trade names should not be used in an ingredient list (e.g. Emulsifying Wax)
    4. There are too many instances of inappropriate use of a parentheses. For example, Provitamin B5 (DL-Panthenol) should simply be Panthenol.

    Yes…this is just the quick description from my vendor. Anyways, you didn’t answer my question. Thanks for your help!

  • OldPerry

    Member
    July 21, 2020 at 8:03 pm

    @mrlv90 - initially, you didn’t ask any question.  Without knowing what you mean by the term “red flags” there is not much to answer.

    In your follow up question about Lemon Peel Oil, it’s not really posed in a way that someone could answer.

    Who thinks Lemon Peel Oil is controversial?

    Here is the CIR safety review of citrus oils.
    https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Citrus%20peel.pdf

    They specifically have this to say about skin irritation - “Lemon oil, orange oil, and mandarin peel oil all produced some reaction in irritation studies in animals, but in human subjects, no irritation was observed after topical exposure to lemon oil (up to 20%) or mandarin peel oil (8%).”

    The idea that lemon peel oil is an irritant is not supported by science.

    Whether that same person who does not use scientific evidence to come to their conclusions will consider lemon extract a “red flag”, I have no idea.

    I’d say probably. 

  • letsalcido

    Member
    July 22, 2020 at 12:01 am

    @mrlv90 I think Perry made some good points that could be red flags for some people (those knowing if the brand is to be trusted and follows regulations). 

    The reason I asked what kind of red flags is exactly because that question is broad and can be approached in my possible ways. From incompatible or unsafe ingredients, to lies in the list (like listing Hyaluronic Acid as the only ingredient in a liquid product…).

    With any natural products (and even synthetics) there is a risk of an allergic reaction on some users. Essential oils and natural extracts are usually less regulated than synthetics, and many can cause reactions on people. 

    Some people may think that citrus oils are photo-toxic, but the reality is that many steam distilled aren’t. Some do contain furocoumarins which are the photo-toxic compounds (like bergaptene), like bergamot (steam distilled) and lime (cold pressed).  But you can also find oils that have those compounds removed (bergaptene-free bergamot oil is not hard to find).

    The biggest red flag I can think of is that there are too many active ingredients, and I’m not sure that they can make the formula cost effective if the ingredients are used at the concentrations required to show an effect.

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