Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Skin improving rub-in of moisturizers

  • improving rub-in of moisturizers

    Posted by bita on April 29, 2017 at 6:35 am

    Hi All

    I am a new skincare formulator and I have some problems with my creams specially moisturizing creams:
    Nearly all of the creams I formulated, have poor rub-in and take time to be absorbed. Some of them have soapy feel on skin during applying, too.
    Do you have any suggestion for me ?
    This is one of my hand cream:

    mineral oil 10
    petrolatum 8
    cetearyl alcohol 3
    C25  1.4
    GMS 1.4
    carbomer940 0.3
    glycerin 5
    TEA 0.3
    edta 0.1
    water 70

    Thanks so much,

    belassi replied 7 years ago 6 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • johnb

    April 29, 2017 at 8:33 am

    The formulation you have given has a distinct resemblance to a pharmaceutical aqueous cream. The high level of hydrocarbons (mineral oil & petrolatum) is responsible for the lack of esthetics - tending to give a greasy skin feel/poor absorption and glycerin in high amounts will give a sticky skin feel.

    I think a re-examination of your formulae and comparison with marketed creams which meet your criteria would help a lot in producing a more suitable
    product. Care must be taken so that you are not introducing a load of snake oil and fairy dust into your basic formulae - at this stage anyway.


    April 29, 2017 at 2:54 pm

    If you like your formula the way it is for whatever reason-1% Dimethicone will improve rub-in/penetration.

  • Bill_Toge

    April 29, 2017 at 6:36 pm

    try using emollient esters rather than mineral oil

  • belassi

    April 30, 2017 at 2:59 pm

    Mineral oil, petrolatum in very high percentages - what did you expect? There’s a vast difference between the performance of emollients in this respect. If you want fast absorption you’d best consider emollients such as squalane, capric/caprylic triglycerides … 

  • ltruong

    May 1, 2017 at 4:50 am

    Hi all,
    just curious, should C25 & GMS be 5.25% instead 1.4% because oil phase is 21%?

  • johnb

    May 1, 2017 at 6:10 am

    ltruong This formula has many more problems than the relative levels of C25 & GMS.

  • bita

    May 3, 2017 at 4:42 am

    Thank you all
    I am nearly new in formulating creams and your suggestions was very very useful for me.
    I thought using high level of petroleum and mineral oil helps me for having long lasting after feel. but as I understand, it was wrong!

  • belassi

    May 3, 2017 at 4:58 am

    The sensorials are such an enormous topic that it’s difficult to say much in few words. A while ago an industry chemist tried one of my creams and said it was a short-medium. I asked him what he meant and he said, ‘short play time - stays on the skin a medium time length.’ Apparently each market area has its own distinct preference in this respect but where you find this information, I don’t know. If you want a luxurious after-feel, then try one or two of the silicone elastomers, eg:
    Dow Corning FZ3196 (caprylyl methicone) and 3901 Liquid Satin Blend (dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer)
    - you may need to use the Dow formulation aid if you have emulsion stability issues.

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