improving rub-in of moisturizers

Skin

improving rub-in of moisturizers

Posted by bita on April 29, 2017 at 6:35 am

Hi All

I am a new skincare formulator and I have some problems with my creams specially moisturizing creams:

Nearly all of the creams I formulated, have poor rub-in and take time to be absorbed. Some of them have soapy feel on skin during applying, too.

Do you have any suggestion for me ?

This is one of my hand cream:

mineral oil 10

petrolatum 8

cetearyl alcohol 3

C25 1.4

GMS 1.4

carbomer940 0.3

glycerin 5

TEA 0.3

preservative

edta 0.1

water 70

Thanks so much,

belassi replied 7 years, 6 months ago 6 Members · 8 Replies
8 Replies

johnb

Member
April 29, 2017 at 8:33 am

The formulation you have given has a distinct resemblance to a pharmaceutical aqueous cream. The high level of hydrocarbons (mineral oil & petrolatum) is responsible for the lack of esthetics - tending to give a greasy skin feel/poor absorption and glycerin in high amounts will give a sticky skin feel.

I think a re-examination of your formulae and comparison with marketed creams which meet your criteria would help a lot in producing a more suitable
product. Care must be taken so that you are not introducing a load of snake oil and fairy dust into your basic formulae - at this stage anyway.
DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

Member
April 29, 2017 at 2:54 pm

If you like your formula the way it is for whatever reason-1% Dimethicone will improve rub-in/penetration.
Bill_Toge

Member
April 29, 2017 at 6:36 pm

try using emollient esters rather than mineral oil
belassi

Member
April 30, 2017 at 2:59 pm

Mineral oil, petrolatum in very high percentages - what did you expect? There’s a vast difference between the performance of emollients in this respect. If you want fast absorption you’d best consider emollients such as squalane, capric/caprylic triglycerides …
ltruong

Member
May 1, 2017 at 4:50 am

Hi all,
just curious, should C25 & GMS be 5.25% instead 1.4% because oil phase is 21%?
thanks
johnb

Member
May 1, 2017 at 6:10 am

ltruong This formula has many more problems than the relative levels of C25 & GMS.
bita

Member
May 3, 2017 at 4:42 am

Thank you all
I am nearly new in formulating creams and your suggestions was very very useful for me.
I thought using high level of petroleum and mineral oil helps me for having long lasting after feel. but as I understand, it was wrong!
belassi

Member
May 3, 2017 at 4:58 am

The sensorials are such an enormous topic that it’s difficult to say much in few words. A while ago an industry chemist tried one of my creams and said it was a short-medium. I asked him what he meant and he said, ‘short play time - stays on the skin a medium time length.’ Apparently each market area has its own distinct preference in this respect but where you find this information, I don’t know. If you want a luxurious after-feel, then try one or two of the silicone elastomers, eg:
Dow Corning FZ3196 (caprylyl methicone) and 3901 Liquid Satin Blend (dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer)
- you may need to use the Dow formulation aid if you have emulsion stability issues.