Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General I need your help in makin soap base face wash

  • I need your help in makin soap base face wash

    Posted by UsmanAli on April 25, 2018 at 3:01 pm

    I making soap base face wash but its not have enough foaming and its foaming become decreased day by day
    plz give me the solution 
    Formula:
    Stearic acid  14 %
    Myristic acid 7.5 %
    EGDS 2 %
    CMC  0.5%
    Glycerine 2% 
    SLES   6% 
    SLS  2%
    Cocobetain  2%
    KoH   4% 
    Phenoxyethanol  0.5%
    Water to make 100% 
    Plz tell me the solution or give me a proper formulation 

    belassi replied 6 years, 3 months ago 7 Members · 14 Replies
  • 14 Replies
  • UsmanAli

    Member
    April 26, 2018 at 8:04 am

    Please help me 
    No one reply me here

  • UsmanAli

    Member
    April 26, 2018 at 8:33 am

    @Bellasi

  • Chemist77

    Member
    April 26, 2018 at 2:10 pm

    Usman with that much fatty acids nothing would foam. Increase the SLES & SLS by 2-3 times each and reduce each fatty acid by 50% or 2/3rd. Try and come back with your observation.

  • belassi

    Member
    April 26, 2018 at 3:31 pm

    Put the fatty acids into soapcalc.net and calculate the amount of KOH to saponify them. Do that first and then add the result to the rest.
    HOWEVER I have to say that I have been down this route and I do not recommend it. Go either soap based or synthetic.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    April 26, 2018 at 5:58 pm

    Agree with @Belassi, it’s kinda complicated stuff and the stability versus performance is a big trouble.

  • belassi

    Member
    April 26, 2018 at 7:50 pm

    The percentage of KOH is approximately correct, but I suspect that if not precombined, the reaction time would be very lengthy. Not only that, you end up with a pH of about 9 to 10. 

  • mikethair

    Member
    April 28, 2018 at 2:39 am

    Why not saponify an oil, for example extra virgin olive oil, and leave out all the other stuff?

     We do this and it is a huge success for our own brand and the other OEM brands we manufacture for.

  • UsmanAli

    Member
    May 20, 2018 at 9:08 am

    Thanks to all for helping
    Sir i have tried again as following 
    Myristic acid 8 %
    Stearic acid 12% 
    SLS 2% 
    SLES 5 %
    Cocobetain 4% 
    K-D 2% 
    KoH 4.5% 
    PG 1%
    Glycerine 2% 
    CMC O.5 % 
    PH=8
    The foaming is increased but it become separate after  10 days 2 layers apeared 
    Plz help me with a stable formulation please i m so worried 

  • Gunther

    Member
    May 20, 2018 at 3:03 pm

    While Potassium myristate (from reacting Myristic acid + KOH) seems to be a bit soluble, Potassium stearate is likely insoluble.

    Please read the study
    The solubility of sodium and potassium soaps and the phase diagrams of aqueous potassium soaps

    The only soaps that are even moderately soluble at room temperature are potassium laurate, myristate, and oleate, the potassium salt of acids from coconut oil, and the sodium oleate. The other sodium and potassium soaps of the saturated fatty acids require elevated temperatures for solution.
    https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/BF02645899

    So you’re limited to Potassium hydroxide (to make Potassium salts), coconut oil, lauric, myristic and oleic acid.

    With other oils, you may wait for the insoluble soaps to precipitate down, then draw the upper layer with just the soluble ones
    but I don’t know if you’ll need a centrifuge for that.

  • Nicole_Hsu

    Member
    June 10, 2018 at 3:56 pm

    How about adding some emulsifier like GMS 1-2% and Cetyl stearyl alcohol 0.5-3%?
    Though it might decrease the pearl effect and become cream like.

  • David

    Member
    June 10, 2018 at 5:53 pm

    Is there an advantage mixing soap and an SLS/SLES/CAPB based recipe?
    Sounds to me you need to get rid of the “soap based” idea - your recipe is anyway not 100% soap based so why bother?

  • belassi

    Member
    June 10, 2018 at 6:37 pm

    ^^^ What David said. Think: Does soap have properties better than the synthetics? It doesn’t clean better, it doesn’t have more foam… but it does come with a high pH that makes preservation more problematic. Most factors sell potassium cocoate, a liquid soap. If you try washing your face with it, soon you’ll wish you hadn’t because your skin will dry out. Is that really something you want in a product? As I said, I have wasted enough time on all this to know that it doesn’t work.

  • mikethair

    Member
    June 10, 2018 at 9:22 pm

    @UsmanAli, not sure why you refer to a “soap base” when in fact there is no soap. We produce a range of liquid soap face washes. These sell well. Yes @Belassi they do have a high pH and this eliminates the need for preservatives. And no, with the correct selection of oils and careful saponification calculations, liquid soap WILL NOT dry out the skin. If they did, I would have been out of business years ago.

  • belassi

    Member
    June 10, 2018 at 9:31 pm

    Mike, you failed to note what I said: potassium cocoate, a liquid soap. If you try washing your face with it, soon you’ll wish you hadn’t because your skin will dry out.

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