Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating I need Help for emulsions

  • I need Help for emulsions

    Posted by Kingsanity24 on November 4, 2019 at 6:09 am

    Hi! I am humbly asking for your help regarding my formulation for an unorthodox waterbased pomade:

    Oil Phase:

    Micro Wax -  5g -  9%
    Bees Wax - 5g -  9%
    Ceteareth 25 - 1g - 3%
    Avocado Oil - 1g - 2%
    Peg 40 HCO - 4g - 7%
    Water Phase:
    Peg-7 Glyceryl Cocoate - 3g - 5%
    Polysorbate 20 - 4g - 7%
    Water - 30g - 55%

    Fragrance - .8g - 1%
    Phenoxyethanol - .5g - 1%

    These are my formulations but i just cant seem to make the water and oil phases mix. I’ll attach the picture.
    Any insights would help.

    Kingsanity24 replied 4 years, 3 months ago 3 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • Kingsanity24

    Member
    November 4, 2019 at 6:09 am

  • fekher

    Member
    November 4, 2019 at 8:13 am

    @Kingsanity24 you should take a look about required hlb to make correction for your system .

  • pharma

    Member
    November 4, 2019 at 4:48 pm

    Your oil phase is about 20% and your emulsifiers make up about 20%, that’s more emulsifiers than you’d usually need. Your oil phase is likely solid and may not work properly: Use less wax or softer wax and use high sheer to produce very fine droplets or switch emulsifiers to obtain a lamellar system which would work better with such high wax content. With all those PEG-based emulsifiers and a solid oil phase, your product should be super stable if/once you manage to get it to emulsify properly. How do you prepare it step-by-step?

  • Kingsanity24

    Member
    November 4, 2019 at 10:47 pm

    @Fekher noted on this.

    @Pharma Ok. 

    I combine all the oil phase ingredients first up to 190 F until the microcrystalline wax is melted.
    At the same time in other container the water phase. Up until 160 to 170 F. Then I transfer the water phase in the oil phase whil stirring manually with a metal spoon. I do have a hand blender but it’s a small batch only so i hand mix it.

    Also my ceteareth 25 have sour smell. Should i discard it?

  • pharma

    Member
    November 5, 2019 at 5:00 pm
    A spoon? Now that right there might be the answer to your issue ;) . Use the blender in the beginning and stir at low sheer (manually if you want to) until cooled down.
    Sour smell? Not that I know how it smells but I imagine it shouldn’t be sour. Ask someone else!
  • Kingsanity24

    Member
    November 8, 2019 at 12:41 am

    @Pharma thank you for this. I’ll try to do it with a mixer at hand.

    Tho do you have suggestions on my ratios?

  • Kingsanity24

    Member
    November 8, 2019 at 7:15 am

    It’It’s a bit frothy

  • Kingsanity24

    Member
    November 10, 2019 at 3:27 am

    It’s a lot better now. Thanks a lot! @Pharma

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