Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating hydrating/moisturizing ingredients that stick around in rinse-off formulas

  • hydrating/moisturizing ingredients that stick around in rinse-off formulas

    Posted by domicanica on July 11, 2021 at 7:23 pm

    hi everyone. i’m working on a body wash formula and i’d like to incorporate ingredients that would help with moisture retention and dryness and help soothe the skin, if possible. i know about refatting agents like glyceryl oleate but i’m very curious about what else is out there. i found a research paper that suggested that around 3-5% sodium lactate is effective in providing moisture in rinse off products but i didn’t bookmark it and haven’t been able to find it again. i read earlier today that marshmallow root extract and chamomile extract are useful in rinse offs too but i haven’t found legit research as yet. i’m also really curious about the efficacy of aloe, niacinamide and panthenol. does anyone have any useful links or suggestions?

    now of course the main function of body wash is to cleanse the skin and remove dirt and grease but i’d love to attempt to make something that cleanses and still soothes or softens or provides some sort of moisture benefits. i have keratosis pilaris and a lot of the stuff i’ve used just makes my skin dry and itchy. i haven’t really found any lotions as yet that help alleviate this in a satisfactory way either which is why i want to explore making my own products.

    luttie replied 11 months, 2 weeks ago 5 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    July 13, 2021 at 7:48 pm

    @domicanica what you seek is a refatting agent for this body wash product, and glyceryl oleate is a start. Without going into a long list, I’ll suggest you begin with water-soluble glyceryl esters. These will re-fat (“remoisturize”) your body’s skin without crashing foam or viscosity - a valid consideration in body washes. PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate is a go-to, Polyglyceryl-6 Olive Oil Esters will work if you are ethylene oxide averse.  If you can handle it, polyquaterniums can offer substantial re-fatting with silicones included and are low on the irritation index too. Good luck.

  • kconley

    Member
    July 15, 2021 at 1:57 am

    I’m working on a body wash and the formula asks for 20% Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Silk,15% decyl glucoside and 15% coco betaine.  The reason of their choice is that  of decyl glucoside is strong foaming . I have capryl capryl glucoside. Will that change the formula much? And does anyone know of any ingredients that can make body wash more luxurious? This is the first time I’ve posted. Please be patient with me. Im not a chemist. 

  • Abdullah

    Member
    July 15, 2021 at 2:55 am

    Decyl Glucoside is not a strong foaming. Use SLS or SLES for strong foaming and some CAPB if you want mildness. Use silicone or polyquats for conditioning.
    Cleansing Products does not moisturize the skin. Use moisturizer for that purpose. 

  • kconley

    Member
    July 18, 2021 at 3:07 am

    I’m new to all this and I have a lot to learn. The formula is a body wash and has Decyl Glucoside (and) Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, and coca betaine as the surfactants. And it has Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters aka Olivem 300 as a solubilizer. I don’t have Olivem 300. I was wondering what I can use instead? I read I can use a Shea Water Soluble to replace the Olivem 300. It’s 3 percent of the formula. Can i use polysorbate 20? Can I make Shea Water Soluble with 50% water and 50% shea. Its a lot of work for 3% of the product.  but I don’t have an alternative on hand except poly 20. 

  • Abdullah

    Member
    July 18, 2021 at 11:51 am

    kconley said:

    I’m new to all this and I have a lot to learn. The formula is a body wash and has Decyl Glucoside (and) Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, and coca betaine as the surfactants. And it has Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters aka Olivem 300 as a solubilizer. I don’t have Olivem 300. I was wondering what I can use instead? I read I can use a Shea Water Soluble to replace the Olivem 300. It’s 3 percent of the formula. Can i use polysorbate 20? Can I make Shea Water Soluble with 50% water and 50% shea. Its a lot of work for 3% of the product.  but I don’t have an alternative on hand except poly 20. 

    Use SLES/CAPB 3:1 and don’t to make a good shampoo. You can latter test all that other  stuff to make sure that they are not working. 

  • luttie

    Member
    July 1, 2023 at 5:48 pm

    I found a document from Jungbunzlauer that I guess may be the one you were not finding?
    https://www.ulprospector.com/documents/1527679.pdf?bs=5051&b=353679&st=20&r=la&ind=personalcare

    They tested a standard liquid soap formula with 5% of each “moisturising ingredient” and measured the “improvement in skin moisture content” comparing to a control. The results were:

    control => -3%

    glycerine (5%) => +4%

    sodium lactate (5%) => +6%

    potassium lactate (5%) => +9%

    sodium lactate (2.5%) + sodium gluconate (2.5%) => +4%

    Read as substance => % improvement in skin moisture

    Sorry for replying after 2 years :/

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