Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Advanced Questions How to get HPMC/CMC to not separate

  • How to get HPMC/CMC to not separate

    Posted by sohaibbg on January 3, 2022 at 7:55 pm

    I make a sulfate free shampoo for limited sale. Till now Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride had sufficed as a thickener, but recently there is a demand to incorporate Salicylic Acid in the shampoo 

    To accommodate the very low pH of 4, I’ve tried both CMC and HPMC in the following formula:

    Item %

    Water 78.90375
    PQ-7 0.7
    Panthenol B5 0.1
    PEG-7 GC 0.7
    ARS Oil 0.3
    Vit E 0.1
    HPMC 0.5
    Coco Glucoside 5.88049
    Decyl Glucoside 4.22576
    CAPB 5.39
    Salicylic Acid 2
    Phenoxyethanol 0.6
    Potassium Sorbate 0.3
    Fragrance 0.3

    HPMC in distilled water heated to 60°C and sprinkled into a vortex separates over the course of an hour. When filled in a transparent bottle, the top third is thickened and the solution below is thin as water.

    Does anyone have experience using HPMC at such pH levels?

    sohaibbg replied 2 years, 1 month ago 2 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • sohaibbg

    January 3, 2022 at 7:58 pm

    I’m also curious as to the difference between CMC and HPMC. There did not appear functional differences between the two. Also would GHPC remain a good fit for this formula or not?

  • ketchito

    January 4, 2022 at 7:16 pm

    @sohaibbg GHPC would work better in a anionic formula, but it depends if you want not only conditioning but also clarity. I never liked celluloses because they don’t give much yield value, you could try some of the Carbopols or Synthalens designed for low pH systems. 

  • sohaibbg

    January 4, 2022 at 9:01 pm

    I will update after trying out “Emrapol 940” that is locally available and seems similar to Carbopol 940 (although detail is sparse online)

  • sohaibbg

    January 15, 2022 at 12:59 am

    wet hpmc initially for longer and up percentage to 1.3% works, hpmc appears, from documentation, less compatible with APGs, hence increasing percentage may help. I will however be switching to emrapol 940 due to it contributing a desired lubrication effect while shampooing, good against hair breakage.

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