Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating How load 3% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate in cream without losing viscosity

  • How load 3% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate in cream without losing viscosity

    Posted by PassionFruit95 on August 23, 2023 at 11:28 pm

    Hi guys, I need some help here. I want to develop a 3% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate cream-lotion type of moisturizer.

    Below are the emulsifier and thickener dosage:

    Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 2%,

    Cetearyl Alcohol 2.5%,

    Carbomer 0.5%,

    Xanthan gum 0.15%

    The moisturizer is a thick cream before adding in the 3% SAP. After adding in SAP, it loses viscosity and become flowable and watery.

    Is there any way to incorporate high % SAP in cream without losing its viscosity?

    I’ve tried increase the thickener and emulsifier dosage, but it end up the sensory is very heavy. My expectation is to formulate a light-weight cream type with high % of SAP.

    fareloz replied 8 months ago 3 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • jemolian

    August 24, 2023 at 3:35 am

    You’ll have to use a more electrolyte resistant polymer or rework the thickening by other ingredients.

    If not you can use other derivatives like ethyl ascorbic acid.

  • fareloz

    August 24, 2023 at 4:12 am

    Carbomer and many other DIY popular polymers (like Sepiplus, Lecigel, Aristoflex etc) will lose thickening ability in presence of strong electrolytes like sodium salts. That’s why suppliers always have a graph of polymer viscosity based on level of NaCl (table salt).

    The solutions are:

    1. To use more electrolyte-tolerant polymer, e.g. Sepimax Zen. Not sure if it can handle 3% of SAP, but they suggest to add salts after thickening
    2. Use gums. Remove carbomer and increase xanthan gum (you already use it). Or you can use some mixture of gums, like Solagum

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