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How load 3% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate in cream without losing viscosity
Hi guys, I need some help here. I want to develop a 3% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate cream-lotion type of moisturizer.
Below are the emulsifier and thickener dosage:
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 2%,
Cetearyl Alcohol 2.5%,
Carbomer 0.5%,
Xanthan gum 0.15%
The moisturizer is a thick cream before adding in the 3% SAP. After adding in SAP, it loses viscosity and become flowable and watery.
Is there any way to incorporate high % SAP in cream without losing its viscosity?
I’ve tried increase the thickener and emulsifier dosage, but it end up the sensory is very heavy. My expectation is to formulate a light-weight cream type with high % of SAP.
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2 Replies
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You’ll have to use a more electrolyte resistant polymer or rework the thickening by other ingredients.
If not you can use other derivatives like ethyl ascorbic acid.
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Carbomer and many other DIY popular polymers (like Sepiplus, Lecigel, Aristoflex etc) will lose thickening ability in presence of strong electrolytes like sodium salts. That’s why suppliers always have a graph of polymer viscosity based on level of NaCl (table salt).
The solutions are:
- To use more electrolyte-tolerant polymer, e.g. Sepimax Zen. Not sure if it can handle 3% of SAP, but they suggest to add salts after thickening
- Use gums. Remove carbomer and increase xanthan gum (you already use it). Or you can use some mixture of gums, like Solagum
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