Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating How do I use these ingredients?

  • How do I use these ingredients?

    Posted by GabyD on March 4, 2020 at 8:17 am

    I have bought some Calendula and Chamomile to add to a moisturiser. They have come with these instructions but I don’t really understand. Would appreciate someone explaining to me. Many thanks.


    Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract [Min. 5% Lutein]
    Carotinoids and Triterpinic Alcohols which are both soluble in oil so we recommend extracting calendula into an oil base.
    Typical Use Level:  0.1-1% as equivalent of an oil extraction.

    Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract [Min. 1.2% Apigenin]

    We recommend extracting this herb into water, water:glycerin or water:alcohol and adding the filtered extract into your formulation.

    GabyD replied 4 years, 2 months ago 2 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • Pharma

    Member
    March 4, 2020 at 4:54 pm
    Your marigold extract is a lipophilic one, probably obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction. It’s oil soluble and hence added to the oil phase.
    Your chamomile extract is, as it seems, a hydro-alcoholic one and therefore best added to the water phase. Because it’s likely not fully dissolving in your aqueous phase, it should be pre-diluted (I’d go with a water/alcohol or water/polyol mixture) and filtered should it show insoluble precipitates.
  • GabyD

    Member
    March 4, 2020 at 6:41 pm

    Thanks @Pharma. Can you elaborate on water/alcohol mixture?

  • Pharma

    Member
    March 4, 2020 at 7:39 pm
    Well, a water/alcohol mixture is basically a mixture of water and ethanol :blush: .
    You’ll have to try which proportion does suit your needs best. The advantage here is, that with enough alcohol, your stock solution is self-preserving and usually has a good shelf life. If you’re not in for ethanol, glycerol or better yet a glycol (they’re closer to ethanol in solvent behaviour).
    Consider contacting the manufacturer to ask what kind of solvent they used to make the extract.
  • GabyD

    Member
    March 6, 2020 at 7:31 pm

    Thanks @Pharma. So it’s fine to heat these ingredients?

  • Pharma

    Member
    March 6, 2020 at 9:37 pm
    Heat? How hot and how long ;) ?
    For DIY small batches, no worries. Officially, they’re likely on the ‘add after cool-down’ side.
  • GabyD

    Member
    March 6, 2020 at 10:18 pm

    OK great, I’ll add them after cool-down. Thank you. Really appreciate your help.

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