Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating HLB Percent, Emulsifier Change

  • HLB Percent, Emulsifier Change

    Posted by Transformize on October 17, 2023 at 2:23 pm

    Just a basic hlb question.
    Required HLB is 13.98 and the Emulsifying Blend is 14.02

    The Emulsifying Blend is:
    ceteareth-25 @ 84%
    glyceryl stearate @ 16%

    Would I be able to just add more of one emulsifier, or would I have a separation problem over time?

    Let’s say I wanted to use:
    ceteareth-25 @ 84%
    glyceryl stearate @ 26%

    I’ve come up with this particular percentage difference with experimentation, by mixing a lotion and a cream for the perfect consistency.

    Thanks in advance.

    • This discussion was modified 4 months, 2 weeks ago by  Transformize.
    • This discussion was modified 4 months, 2 weeks ago by  Transformize.
    • This discussion was modified 4 months, 2 weeks ago by  Transformize.
    DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ replied 4 months, 1 week ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    October 18, 2023 at 8:24 am

    It is good to remember @Transformize that the HLB System is merely a guideline, never an exact point so you have a lot of freedom here to alter your surfactant ratio. Also, adding a third surfactant will not only be allowable but a good idea. I would add some low HLB alcohol ethoxylate Steareth-2 (HLB ~ 5) to offset the high HLB ethoxylate CT-25 to build stability here. There is always the question of the polarity of y our oil blend to consider also.

    • Transformize

      Member
      October 18, 2023 at 10:07 am

      My oil phase is:
      ceteareth-25, glyceryl stearate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, shea butter, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid (not using as triethanolamine stearate). The triethanolamine is just for the carbomer pH. I’ll look into the low HLB alcohol, like you had mentioned.

      Thank you for your help.

      • This reply was modified 4 months, 2 weeks ago by  Transformize.
      • This reply was modified 4 months, 2 weeks ago by  Transformize. Reason: spacing
      • This reply was modified 4 months, 2 weeks ago by  Transformize. Reason: spacing
  • Transformize

    Member
    October 18, 2023 at 9:54 am

    chemicalmatt,
    I’d have changed everything to non-ionic, except carbomer and a few drops of triethanolamine, if non-ionic is a good enough reference to the polarity charge. Thanks.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    October 23, 2023 at 8:12 pm

    Look into Phenoxol T which is a ternary surf blend

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