Help with Formulation: Beauty Cream
Hi Guys ,I hope everyone is doing well.
I am a biotechnologist in South Africa, and recently joined a cosmetic company and I am tasked with R&D of a product.
I urgently need some assistance with a particular formulation. I am trying to formulate and create a beauty cream that is ‘natural and oil free’.
The aim of this cream is to (1) hydrate and balance out skin, (2) significantly even out skin tone and dark marks, and lastly (3) effectively address all causes of skin concerns from aging. It should be effective even for acne prone skin. Our goal is to create a cheaper yet effective version of the USA branded product called Soho Parfait and Fair and Flawless. There is a large market in South Africa for a cost effective product.
Phase A / Oil Phase:
Stearic acid 2%
Cetearyl alcohol 2%
Natural bees wax 1%
Shea butter 2%
Caprylic capric triglyceride 8%
Olivem 1000 4%
Glyceryl stearate 2%
Kojic acid dipalmitate 6%
Sepiwhite MSH 2%
Phase B / Water Phase:
Allantoin 0.2 %
Propylene glycol 2%
1,3 Propandoil 2%
Xanthan gum 0.3%
Distilled Water q.s 100%
Alpha Arbutin 4%
Euxyl PE 9010 1%
Sepicalm WP 3%
All of Phase A is heated at 80 deg/cel.
All of Phase B is heated at 80 deg/cel.
Phase A is dropped into Phase B with emulsification.
The Alpha Arbutin and water in Phase C is mixed together. Once the emulsion is below 40 deg/cel, the Alpha Arbutin solution is added, followed by the remaining ingredients in Phase C. It is given a quick mix to homogenize the emulsion.
The problem that I am facing is that the cream is coming out considerably dense. It absorbs into the skin, and has a waxy residue. As you rub it into the skin, it starts to wax off and get flaky. Perhaps foam? Possibly too much oil phase and not enough water?
Also it isn’t a smooth consistency like what a cream supposed to be. It’s homogeneous but looks ’rough’
Should I also consider lowering the Xantham gum to 0.1 or 0.2%? And also halve the concentration of stearic acid and cetearyl alcohol? Possibly Shea butter?
Am I also not sure about the pH. I am trying to keep it below 6.6 so aiming for a pH around 6 to 6.3 for the stability of the active ingredients and for it to work synergistically.
How can I effectively adjust the pH? Ideally I want to use NaOH and Citric acid. Would this not cause instability and influence the active ingredients over time?
I am also not adding EDTA. Is this something I should consider?
The information I got from Seppic regarding the Sepiwhite was to solubilize in hot water that is neutralized with a weak base. They recommend TEA. I tried this method with NaOH and I failed terribly. So I opted in adding it to my oil phase. Suggestions on this would be welcomed too.
Please can anyone provide assistance and advice with the my formula, and advice to the problems I am experiencing?
I would genuinely appreciate all the help I can get.
Alternatively if there is anyone with an existing formulation with the same active ingredients, please share. Truth be told, I don’t have much experience in actual formulating but rather clinical trials and biomedical research. This is a whole new challenge.
MMed Sci; MPH; PhD
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