Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Cosmetic Industry Help Please!!! Formula Separating!

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  • Help Please!!! Formula Separating!

    Posted by Peta1 on July 19, 2022 at 8:09 pm

    Hi, so I made a simple leave in conditioner but then after a few days water started separate just a little. I wanted it to be a light leave-in conditioner so i used 1% of the Cetearyl Alcohol and 1% BTMS-50. Could the reason of separation be that my oils are too low? I would love some help I am trying to learn to be better at this. Is there a specific ration to oils and water that I should be following?
    Makes 8oz
    Phase1
    Distilled Water 85%
    Glycerin- 3.75%
    BTMS-50-  1%
    Phase 2
    Castor Oil- 2.5%
    Cetearyl Alcohol- 1%
    Sorbic Acid- 1%
    Mango Butter- 3.75%
    Phase 3
    Vitamin E -0.625%
    D-Panthenol- 0.125%
    Fragrance- 1.25%

    Squinny replied 1 year, 10 months ago 4 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    July 19, 2022 at 9:32 pm

    @Peta1

    You are not adding enough BTMS … increase that to 4% or so and it should solve your probelm

  • Peta1

    Member
    July 19, 2022 at 9:36 pm

    @MarkBroussard wow really THANK YOU!! i would have never thought that. So the oil amount is fine? 

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    July 19, 2022 at 9:49 pm

    @Peta1

    Yes, between the Castor Oil and Mango Butter you’re good.  You just don’t have enough BTMS … if you want it to be thicker you’ll have to increase the Cetearyl Alcohol also

  • Peta1

    Member
    July 19, 2022 at 9:54 pm

    @MarkBroussard Thank you so much! I appreciate your help very much!!! I want it to be thin and light so I will leave the cetearyl alcohol. 

  • Squinny

    Member
    July 19, 2022 at 10:23 pm

    Maybe to make it thinner (Mark please correct me if I’m wrong just speaking from personal experience making creams and lotions) I find Cetyl Alcohol rather than Cetearyl Alcohol makes for a thinner product (Or perhaps try BTMS-25 which has Cetearyl Alcohol in it already)?

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    July 19, 2022 at 10:29 pm

    @Squinny:

    You could use either.  Cetearyl Alcohol also comes in different % of Cetyl:Stearyl ratio … you can get 25:75, 50:50, 75:25

  • Squinny

    Member
    July 19, 2022 at 10:33 pm

    Thanks Mark I didnt know that! You are a legend with all your knowledge you share :) Have a great day (or night?) - is is breakfast time here in Australia. Cheers

  • Squinny

    Member
    July 19, 2022 at 10:41 pm

    Hi Mark - Just looked and my Supplier (repacker) and it doesnt say the ratio for the Cetyl/Stearic %’s in their Cetearyl Alcohol - What ratio you listed above makes for a thicker product? (Mine does make lovely thick cream when I use around 2.8% ( I do one with OliveM 1000 at 4.8% and Cetearyl Alc at 2.8% and it is a lovely thickness and skin feel for me) - But open to suggestions on what would make it better. Cheers again

  • Graillotion

    Member
    July 20, 2022 at 3:24 am

    Squinny said:

    Hi Mark - Just looked and my Supplier (repacker) and it doesnt say the ratio for the Cetyl/Stearic %’s in their Cetearyl Alcohol - What ratio you listed above makes for a thicker product? (Mine does make lovely thick cream when I use around 2.8% ( I do one with OliveM 1000 at 4.8% and Cetearyl Alc at 2.8% and it is a lovely thickness and skin feel for me) - But open to suggestions on what would make it better. Cheers again

    Usually…somewhere in the fine print or attached documents you can find the ratio.  If not… message the seller, and they will let you know.  Always important to know….if you ever have to use a different seller…you might end up with an unexpected difference in your formula. :) 

  • Graillotion

    Member
    July 20, 2022 at 3:28 am

    MarkBroussard   Cetearyl Alcohol also comes in different % of Cetyl:Stearyl ratio … you can get 25:75, 50:50, 75:25

    I have always known this…but also don’t use the stuff.

    But in my ever-present quest of knowledge…I would like to hear you elaborate on why one would want a specific ratio….mainly in a context of haptics.  What do you get when you go high stearyl alcohol…that would be different than say the high cetyl version?

    Thank you…I’ll sit back and listen.

  • Squinny

    Member
    July 20, 2022 at 3:32 am

    Yes thanks G - I did just that this morning and was advised along the composition sheet which is useful to know going forward - But I love this particular supplier and they are always helpful and forthcoming if you ask for extra info. Unfortunately I have to source a lot of other ingredients they don’t supply elsewhere. FYI the ratio is 30% Cetyl and 70% Stearyl of the Cetearyl I am using.

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