Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Got the emulsified body butter just where I want it… BUT…hand residue?

  • Got the emulsified body butter just where I want it… BUT…hand residue?

    Posted by graillotion on March 2, 2023 at 3:13 pm

    I have been tweaking an emulsified body butter (emollients), and feel I finally got it close to perfection, using a blend of Isostearyl Isostearate, Dicapryl carbonate, and added HydroVance (aka Hydroxyethyl Urea).

    The goal was to create a residual (positive) skin feel…which I accomplished. However, as a side result…I also got a residual feel on the hands, used to apply the butter on the body. I don’t suspect the hydrovance, but just listed it…as it was one of the alterations. I use Dicaprylyl carbonate in other things…so I have not experienced that in those formulas (it tends to leave a dry residual feel). I am ULTRA sensitive to anything that even resembles an oily feel, so this residual feel on the hands…might delight others….and they might say….I can feel that it is working….but for me….I struggle with that.

    That leaves the Isostearyl Isostearate, which I have not worked with in formula, for the possible culprit. For those that use ISO ISO, do you find this to be the case? Leaves a wee bit of a residual feel…that someone might perceive as ‘oily’? If this is the case…then probably all I need to do…is half the rate of ISO ISO. I was reading some George Deckner material…and he really seems fond of ISO ISO.


    For Extra Credit points… What is your general feeling on: Isopropyl Isostearate. George also seems to be high on this emollient….but I struggle to find it small pak…. Is it worth the extra effort…or easily interchangeable with other emollients (in the context of a moisturizing cream)? If you read George’s material of moisturizers…he really waxes eloquent on Isostearyl Isostearate, and Isopropyl Isostearate. I know what he is getting at with the Isostearyl….but I don’t have the Isopropyl….and wondered if I needed to chase it down, to the ends of the earth?

    graillotion replied 1 year, 1 month ago 1 Member · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • graillotion

    March 2, 2023 at 3:53 pm

    Or….are these emollients as @chemicalmatt might suggest….high in character count value,…and help meet G’s character count requirement? 😂

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 1 month ago by  Graillotion.

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