Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Good shampoo bar or 💩 bar?

  • Good shampoo bar or 💩 bar?

    Posted by Margaret on February 23, 2021 at 11:38 pm
    Crappy shampoo bars OR am I missing something magical here?

    Now here are 2 shampoo bars made in Canada. As you can see, they ONLY consist of ONE or TWO surfactants, plus a bunch of oils & fats to compete with the sebum on your hair for the attention of the surfactant(s).

    According to info. I read on the CIR panel or from retailers of cosmetics ingredients, the maximum amounts allowable for these surfactants are as follows: PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I’M WRONG! I like to get corrected. Ignorance is not always bliss.

    MAXIMUM SAFE %:
    Sodium cocyl isethionate: 50%
    Sodium coco sulfate 29%
    Decyl glucoside 15%

    BIRCH BABE shampoo bar
    ingredients: sodium coco isethionate, decyl glucoside, sodium lactate, cocoa butter, cetyl alcohol, shea butter, coconut oil, olive oil, nettle, horsetail, panthenol, bilberry extract, ylang ylang oil, tangerine oil, bergamot, citric acid, mica

    UNWRAPPED shampoo bar
    Shampoo: sodium coco sulfate, coconut oil, cocoa butter, jojoba oil, calendula, shea oil, hemp seed oil, apricot seed oil, (essential oils of: neroli and sweet orange), d-panthenol, turmeric, and hydrolyzed quinoa protein

    Please let me know what you think of the LOI in these shampoo bars. My gods, they sell for $15.50 -$18 Canadian a bar.

    Personally, I think they wouldn’t do a good job & have a good helping of bull ca-ca in them, but I’d like to read your opinion(s).

    SUMMARY: I do NOT make these bars, as shown above. I am just showing the LOI of the 2 “companies” that make them, to get your opinion(s). 

    Cafe33 replied 3 years, 2 months ago 5 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • OldPerry

    Member
    February 24, 2021 at 12:51 am

    All shampoo bars are crap compared to liquid shampoos. 
    If you keep the comparison to shampoo bars, I don’t know, I’d guess the coco sulfate version would be more effective but with all the oils in the bar, probably not.

  • JonahRay

    Member
    February 24, 2021 at 1:06 am

    I don’t mind the shampoo bars from L*sh. They are basically just pressed SLS pellets though. If you like to strip your hair to squeaky clean and then slick it with silicones they work well!

  • Margaret

    Member
    February 24, 2021 at 3:47 am

    PERRY: Do you think the shampoo bars are inferior to liquid because one doesn’t get as much surfactant deposited with the bar vs. the liquid OR because the formulae for ‘poo bars you’ve seen are crappy? 
    People want to know 🤪….

  • OldPerry

    Member
    February 24, 2021 at 1:48 pm

    @Margaret - Upfront I should say that this is just a personal opinion. As @JonahRay demonstrates, some people like (or at least tolerate) shampoo bars. For people who do, more power to them. 

    For me personally, I don’t think they deliver enough surfactant for me to feel they are getting hair clean. I don’t think they foam well enough, they are more cumbersome to use, and where they do touch the hair they leave it feeling “dry” or rough.

    Yes, I think the main issue is that they do not deliver enough surfactant. They also do not deliver a consistent formula. While a liquid product can be a homogenous mixture, a bar soap is more like a box of Lucky Charms. In one handful you might get 10 marshmallows while in another handful you might get 2 marshmallows. Similarly, in one use of the shampoo bar you might get some of the panthenol delivered while in another you might get none. 

    But again, this is all just a personal opinion about the bar shampoos. Obviously, some people like them.

  • EmmaTomic

    Member
    February 24, 2021 at 6:09 pm

    The main problem I see with shampoo bars is most people have no clue how to formulate them properly. Looking at some of the ingredients lists they put insane amounts of oil, butters and even saw one with wax. Lush and other bars I’ve seen don’t even melt the SCI pellets so it looks like it would harshly tear through the hair. Some brands are just regular cold process soap masquerading as ‘shampoo bar’.   

  • Margaret

    Member
    February 24, 2021 at 7:11 pm

    EmmaTomic said:

    The main problem I see with shampoo bars is most people have no clue how to formulate them properly. Looking at some of the ingredients lists they put insane amounts of oil, butters and even saw one with wax. Lush and other bars I’ve seen don’t even melt the SCI pellets so it looks like it would harshly tear through the hair. Some brands are just regular cold process soap masquerading as ‘shampoo bar’.   

        I think the FLUSH ‘poo bars are SLS (BUT I could be wrong). They just PRESS the surfactant noodles w/the oils & stuff. 
        I almost get hives when I see the vast # of people selling soap as shampoo bars. I have reported a company to Health Canada for selling soap bars as a dog shampoo, because this is horribly wrong to use on a dog. Health Canada canNOT keep up with the shiiiit that’s sold on-line now. 

  • Cafe33

    Member
    February 24, 2021 at 8:20 pm

    The shampoo bar you listed will not work well for many reasons. You can make a very good shampoo bar but the main issues will be structural integrity and how it will dry after use. Most of them turn to mush after a few uses.

    The other issue is that it requires quick and dense foaming as the user will always apply too much until they are more educated in how these products really work. The foam is a visual indication to the user that enough product is in the hair.

    SCI is very expensive and especially if the product falls into pieces after two weeks. The main challenge is to make a bar that will actually deliver proper cleaning, manageability and stay actually stay in bar form. Here’s a picture of a used shampoo bar with around 60 washes under its belt by a person with very thick shoulder length hair. It has been used for around 10-11 weeks so far. The starting weight was 85 g and now it is around 25 g. It is staying solid and drying well simply placed directly on the shower rack. I think it will start to breakdown at around 10-12 g or so.

           

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