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Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating GMS and varying levels of monostearate……?

  • GMS and varying levels of monostearate……?

    Posted by Graillotion on February 7, 2023 at 3:30 am

    Can someone either provide a link…or explain what can be expected from the various concentrations of monostearate in GMS? I will be switching from a low grade (40%) mono to a 95+% mono, and am curious to know what I should expect with this ingredient change. I assume I will not miss those di and tri stearates! 😆

    I found this little blurb from George Deckner…. What can you add?

    Functionally, there is a big difference in performance if you use a 90% versus 40% mono. A 90% mono has a higher melting point (69°C versus 58-63°C), lighter skin feel, and a higher HLB (EU) (~4-5, versus ~3). The higher HLB of the 90% mono enables you to form LGNs much easier with lower emulsifier levels and energy than when using cetyl (EU)/stearyl alcohol (EU).”

    Look forward to hearing your thoughts.

    • This discussion was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by  Graillotion.
    • This discussion was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by  Graillotion.
    • This discussion was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by  Graillotion.
    ketchito replied 1 month, 2 weeks ago 4 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • Abdullah

    February 7, 2023 at 4:19 am

    I saw in a book that 40% mono is more favorable in cosmetics but no comments on why.

    I haven’t used 90% mono because i have to import it from another country and MOQ 25kg but i like too know the results of this change too.

    There is one thing and that is just my assumption that di and thri doesn’t help with LGN formation so in 40% mono, only 40% of it will help LGN formation.

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by  Abdullah.
  • chemicalmatt

    February 7, 2023 at 12:42 pm

    That “40%” moniker refers to the stearic acid used to make the ester, that grade being the typical food grade or soapers grade stearic (~50% C16/C18). That is the GMS to use as a builder for 99% of your formulations and why it is most common and least expensive. That 90% C18OOH is deo grade, and I have to think you’d buy the glyceryl ester made of it on special order. Sounds like George Deckner may have been overthinking this or needed to use up his word count.

  • Graillotion

    February 7, 2023 at 2:37 pm

    @chemicalmatt what makes the 90% better suited to deo? Intrigues me….as I of course make deo, which includes GMS! It is an emulsified deo…..was the deo designation more oriented to anhydrous systems?

    I didn’t realize George was on a word count retainer. 😂 Good to know.

  • ketchito

    February 7, 2023 at 5:27 pm

    This is just a guess (I couldn’t help but jumping into the discussion), but I believe the 90% is used preferentially in deos since by having mostly C18 it has a higher melting point (compared to a 50/50 C16:C18), which gives a harder stick.

  • Graillotion

    February 7, 2023 at 10:12 pm

    That make sense @ketchito if one were making a stick. (And George mentioned that higher melt temp.)

    As I am using it in emulsions…. I am trying to determine what value it might bring.

    • ketchito

      February 8, 2023 at 9:06 am

      Hi! In an emulsion, you’d get a higher viscosity due to a higher melting point of your structuring agent.