Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Gentle cleanser ingredients that help remove makeup?

  • Gentle cleanser ingredients that help remove makeup?

    Posted by Zink on October 17, 2016 at 4:30 pm

    I have a water based cleanser that uses Decyl Glucoside as its only surfactant, reports say it cleans well, but can fall short when trying to remove makeup.

    Any ideas about gentle ingredients that don’t leave the skin feeling dry that could assist with this?

    crisbaysauli replied 7 years, 6 months ago 7 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • Bobzchemist

    October 17, 2016 at 6:06 pm

    You could always go with “like dissolves like”.

  • Chemist79

    October 17, 2016 at 8:35 pm

    I would add a bit of hexylene or propylene glycol along with your surfactant 

  • Zink

    October 17, 2016 at 11:01 pm

    @Bobzchemist I thought about adding a bit more oils or esters, e.g. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride which is already in the aromatic extract blend. Think increasing the amount a couple % could work? Only thing is that it clouds the formula a lot.

    @Chemist79 how about just adding more glycerin?

  • belassi

    October 18, 2016 at 1:16 am

    Considering that makeup will be oily, why not use a high-HLB emulsifier such as PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate which should mix perfectly with your decyl glucoside, I believe. 

  • Zink

    October 18, 2016 at 5:51 am

    @Belassi Why not? You tell me! I see EWG is a bit concerned about it but I don’t know if their concern has any validity. What use rate would you estimate it’d make a difference at? Say if using 10% Decyl Glucoside.

  • crisbaysauli

    October 18, 2016 at 8:15 am

    @Belassi I just did PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate make-up remover but my mixture became cloudy… Is there a specific brand that can make the mixture clear?

    @Zink due to this clouding effect I tried a few more mixtures and came up with a clear one using NatraGem S140 NP. 

  • Chemist79

    October 18, 2016 at 8:37 am

    Hi Zink, if you add more glycerin I would expect this would give quite a sticky after feel (if this is a leave on product) and it won’t remove make up as well as Glycols which are excellent and cheap solvents.

    If it is a leave on product I would strip your formula right back i’d suggest maybe just 1% active Decyl Glucoside, 1% Hexylene Glycol, 2% Glycerin, 0.2% Sodium Benzoate, 0.05% Potassium Sorbate, 0.05% Citric Acid (to pH 4.8 to 5.2), 0.05% active chelating agent. If you are using fragrance you could premix it with 1% Polysorbate 20 for a nice clear product.

    I would probably replace the decyl glucoside with something like Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (TEGOSOFT PC 41) which is a great product for this type of application.

    If you are new to formulating this type of product or any type of product, I would always recommend http://www.ulprospector.com  as a great source of information, it has some good starting formulations provided by the ingredients supplier. Just be aware though suppliers are trying to sell their ingredients so many formulations are over formulated. If a supplier says to use their ingredient at 10% try 5% first you will probably find the results are is good.

    Or if you have access to the equipment you could always do some analysis on the leading brands combined with the principles of the ingredients listing you can make a pretty good educated guess on what their formula is and then build it back up with your own interpretation. 

    Good luck with your formulation.

  • Zink

    October 19, 2016 at 5:15 am

    @crisbaysauli looks like a great solubilizer, what’s their MOQ and price/kg? My issue is that the Triglycerides are part of a proprietary fragrant extract blend.

    @Chemist79 it’s a cleanser so it’s wash-off hence I wouldn’t be concerned with stickiness, I’ll just have to get my makeup kit out and give the combos a try lol.
    crisbaysauli also suggested a polyglyceryl caprate, what are the benefits over Decyl Glucoside?

    Many thanks!

  • David

    October 19, 2016 at 11:23 pm

    I made an oilbased one once using Arlatone TV (PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate) - it worked quite ok.

  • DavidW

    October 21, 2016 at 2:50 am

    Try this Miracare 2MHT.  I have used it before in a makeup remove.

  • crisbaysauli

    October 21, 2016 at 3:25 am

    @Zink you dont have to remove decyl glucoside. I guess you have to contact the nearest office near you for those informatin. 

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