Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Gentle and effective sulfate-free shampoo.

  • Gentle and effective sulfate-free shampoo.

    Posted by LeoCosm on January 6, 2023 at 1:12 am

    Hello there.
    I have been formulating detergent systems since 2010, starting by using simple sodium laureth sulfates and stuff.
    It’s been already 2 years since I started producing sulfate free formulas, improving what I do now consider my best one.

    Before I write the formula i just want to tell you how taugh and sacrificing (economically also) it has been. I worked with many types of surfactants and had to trash many experiments.

    Aqua (70% of the water)
    Glycerin 1.5
    Sodium Chloride 0.3
    Sodium cocoyl glutamate 20 (aws 36)
    Iselux 3 (aws 82.5)
    Disodium cocoamphodiacetate 3 (aws 50)
    Capb 10 (aws 3.1)

    Aqua (remaining 30%)
    Polyquaternium-10 0.25 (let hydrate while mixing to avoid any deposit, then let it sit for 30 minutes and stir again)

    I mix both phases and then adjust pH to 6 with citric acid to improve surfactants detergency, then straight to ph 5 with lactic acid.

    Phenoxyethanol and ethylexylglycerin 0.6/0.7
    D-Panthenol (liquid solution 75%) 1.5.

    It gets pretty thick, not fully transparents (cloudy).

    It is very gentle onto my skin since I have a sensitive one. Free fatty acid from both main surfactans grants a light nourishment for the hair without stripping or ruining the skin barrier.
    It is as spreadable as a sodium laureth sulfate-based shampoo and last but not least, panthenol helps to retain and lock moisture in the hair.

    ketchito replied 1 year, 11 months ago 4 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • ketchito

    Member
    January 6, 2023 at 3:49 am

    @LeoCosm Hi. What is the question?

  • LeoCosm

    Member
    January 6, 2023 at 12:28 pm

    Sorry, it was late in my country and i forgot to write.
    I want to know why it doesn’t get fully transparent. 

  • GeorgeBenson

    Member
    January 6, 2023 at 6:53 pm

    At what point in the process does it lose transparency?

    Maybe it’s the panthenol? i use pretty much the same ingredients in a shampoo except the panthenol and it comes out transparent.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    January 6, 2023 at 7:43 pm

    Is it tiny bubbles or haziness?  Panthenol should not cause that problem as it is water soluble.

  • LeoCosm

    Member
    January 7, 2023 at 1:28 am

    There aren’t bubbles after 10 hours. It’s haziness. Probably I think it’s because of iselux

  • ketchito

    Member
    January 7, 2023 at 3:29 am

    @LeoCosm Your system might not support much salt, so you might want to add sodium chloride at the end (perhaps you might not even need it).

    Also, lesve the pH at 6, to see if that fixes your haziness.

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