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Functional fragrances issues: incorporating fragrance into cosmetic products
Please post your questions here and I’ll do my best to answer them
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39 Replies
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First would be the explanation of polarities of fragrance components in general and their effect on various type of solvents like ethanol, water, emulsion, surfactant and so on. As laymen its very struggling for us to choose a fragrance for our formulas and then end up going back to the board just because the fragrance is destabilizing the emulsion/shampoo/or any other product.
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Jeez Louise
Well I’m writing a 2 volumes textbook on the subjectJust to give you an idea how vast and intricate this subject is.I would suggest: pick a very specific instance where you’ve experienced problems and we’ll go from there?(trying to make it as easy as possible for everyone interested, including beginners) -
Since I am no expert I would start with discoloration of vanilla in our white products, how can it be minimized or prevented????
(You said something for all to understand).So here you are -
That’s a good question.
The sad answer is: you can’t prevent it all together. Vanillin (single molecule that has the typical vanilla sugar odor) will always discolor.But there are other fragrance raw materials one could use that still smell sweet vanilla like but don’t discolor as much.The most important question I have for you in order to solve this is:do you use single molecules fragrance raw materials or mixtures?If mixtures: do you know their exact composition?If yes or no, please add what influences that choice.(I have a meeting to attend to now so I’ll get back to you later today or tomorrow with more) -
No I am not aware of the composition, as far as I know the label says Vanilla. Beyond that all I know is that I read somewhere that we have explored the Mars but no settlement yet for this Vanilla issue
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Sure, here’s a question for you:
I am formulating a salicylic acid face wash incorporating essential Citrus Oils … lemon peel oil, orange peel oil and grapefruit peel oil. I recall reading that these oils could cause some skin irritation unless accompanied by an antioxidant to prevent oxidation of the oils. They are being used at lower percentages … 0.1% each. I am mixing the oils in Polysorbate 80 and then adding the mixture directly to the surfactants and the surfactant/essential oil blend is added to the water phase.Any recommendations on good antioxidants for these essential oils? And, at these low levels, is an antioxidant really necessary in your opinion? -
I’d use vitamin E, say 0.2% total. I constantly have to replace my stock of D-Limonene (orange peel oil) because it oxidises so fast.
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@milliachemist there you go: that is the biggest issue, using something that is just labeled ‘vanilla’. Would you make a shampoo with something from a bottle called ‘makes foam’?Step number 1 when incorporating fragrances in your cosmetic formulations, treat the fragrance mix the same as your other ingredients. Buy from a respectable supplier that can provide you with accurate information on use, stability, physical and chemical information (spec sheet), allergen declaration and if it is a natural, a chemical analysis.If this is not possible then invest in working with single aromachemicals. For example pure vanillin crystals. If you need help with tracking a supplier for that, please lmk.Step number 2: the discoloration of vanillin is due to its chemical structure: it contains both an aldehyde and a phenolic group. Both are very prone to oxidation. This problem has been resolved in a number of ways.-by synthesis of vanilla smelling aromachemicals that either shield the aldehydic or the phenolic group. These new molecules can be used with minimal discoloration and are called Isobutavan and Ultravanil.-a patent was released in 2008 that shows very good results with adding water-soluble sulfites to the formulation.Step number 3: adjust your pH to an acidic rangeStep number 4: avoid ingredients that will react with the vanillin like ammonia, primary and secondary amines, amino acids, protein hydrolysates, proteins, ammonium-type surfactants, reactive methylene emollient esters, mercaptans, oxidizing ingredients and aldehyde-reactive additives like dihydroxyacetone, alcohols, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), ammonium lauryl sulfate or ammonium laureth sulfate, protein hydrolysates (almost always rich in amino acids)Step number 5: if formulating alkaline bar soaps or the like, avoid acetyl acetonate esters, malonate esters, phenyl acetic acid esters and other similar emollient esters and use chelating agents like EDTA to bind alkali metalsStep number 6: minimize oxidation by minimizing exposure of the surface of the product to air and light. Use airless, opaque dispensers for liquids, opaque glass/plastics for solids and powders (talcum is a bad combo with vanillin)Step number 7: use colorants like whiteners (TiO2) or experiment with pigments that can handle the brown, like reds.Step number 8: own it: incorporate the discoloration in the marketing story. Use grounded vanilla beans for a more ‘artisanal’ look or add a chocolate or coffee fragrance so that the color is congruent with what consumers would expect of the smellI hope this helps.
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@MarkBroussard, before I can give you accurate advice, first a few questions for you: what is the reason that you chose citrus essential oils as fragrances? Why these particular citrus oils? Do you have information from your suppliers regarding use, chemical properties and allergens?
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@IrinaTudor Absolutely brilliant. As for my fragrance supplier, I suppose it is pretty trustworthy though it’s lethargy on my part that I am not asking for composition as it is an accepted fact that Vanilla deceives.
But you have given so many points that if not prevention, guess it can be delayed or minimized.
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@Belassi, we use a nitrogen blanket over our d-limonene storage. It makes a big difference.
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“Oxidation products of limonene that form during handling and storage, rather than limonene itself, are the mediators of irritation and sensitization.”
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@Bobzchemist: I’ve never heard of that, can you let me have more information?
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Thanks BobZ! Very useful information …
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Ah, I see. I don’t use that much though. I keep it in the refri because I assume that oxidation won’t be as fast at a lower temperature.
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You’re welcome @milliachemist.
Thank you for chiming in @Bobzchemist.Blanketed or not I think using citrus oils high in limonene content in a cosmetic product intended for the face is not the best idea, due to high risk of sensitization. d-Limonene is for example a common industrial degreaser, so it will dry-out the skin as well, increasing risk of sensitization and photo-toxicity.There are far more compatible fragrance solutions for face products out there than citrus essential oils.For example a light orange blossom with citrus nuances aromachemical like nerol would be a more suitable option. -
Thanks, Irina.
After your question as to why these oil, I did some research and completely concur with you … no point in using the citrus oils on a facial product.You know, this always gets back to core principle … always thoroughly research an ingredient before trying to incorporate it into a product! -
@ Belassi You are right, low temperatures slow down oxidation but doesn’t stop it completely. The solubility of oxygen in oils increases as the temperature of the oil decreases, so it is a good idea, as was suggested by Bob, to flush the head space with an inert gas. For small volumes, you can get a can of those mixtures used to preserve wine, which is generally a mixture of CO2, nitrogen, and argon gas and used to avoid wine deterioration in opened bottles.
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@Ruben - I’d never heard of that! Will check.
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“d-Limonene is for example a common industrial degreaser” … LOL! I got the idea for including citrus oils in the face wash while I was shopping at Home Depot!Thanks for the suggesions!
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@Irina, I agree completely with keeping D-limonene and citrus oils out of cosmetics, especially for the face. The only cosmetic use it might have would be in an anti-acne soap, or a mechanics soap, to boost the degreasing/cleansing action, but only at low levels.
We use it as a room air freshener fragrance ingredient, as a degreaser, and as a solvent - but it’s not in any of our personal care products.This is one of those all-natural ingredients that sound friendly and innocuous - who would worry about lemon peel oil or orange peel oil - but are in fact quite harmful to the skin, especially at high concentrations. -
Good point, BobZ. I was thinking of using the citrus oils in an acne cleanser as a “degreaser” and fragrance, but even at 0.1% each (for a total of 0.3% essential citrus oils), I found the concoction to be too irritating to the skin. I did not do the precursor research exactly because, as you point out, all-natural, so I assumed innocuous. Smells great! … but, burns like hell! (I am my own Animal Testing)
All-Natural is not necessarily All-Good. -
I’ve gotten it on my own skin often enough to feel for you about the burning sensation, Mark, As near as I can tell, some of that sensation is from chemical irritation, and some comes from the solvent actually de-fatting the skin. Lanolin seems to work nicely as a treatment.
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Thank BobZ! LOL! Now you know why I don’t have a photo next to my name! … Thanks for the Lanolin tip … I always patch test on my forearm before putting anything on my face, of course.
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