Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Formulating a Foaming Vehicle for a Topical Leave On?

  • Formulating a Foaming Vehicle for a Topical Leave On?

    Posted by formulatorN00b on August 27, 2018 at 9:30 pm

    Hi there, I’m new to cosmetic chemistry and chemistry in general (in University but hoping to go to cosmetic chemistry one day), however I’m interested in trying my hand at formulating a serum/leave on product in a foaming vehicle rather than a spray or serum texture.  I was wondering what surfactants or other ingredients would be gentle for skin with eczema and psoriasis to help achieve this effect?  I was planning to use foaming pumps rather than any sort of pressurized container, as it’s for my own personal usage.  I wasn’t sure if solvents/humectants like butylene glycol or propenadiol would be enough to create a light foam.  I’m trying to make it lightly foam specifically to make it more spreadable over a large surface area.  

    AVisotsky replied 5 years, 7 months ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • belassi

    August 27, 2018 at 11:00 pm

    I have a keen interest in eczema/psoriasis and because I read a lot of information about it I’m very aware that (1) this is not something that cosmetics treat, but a medical issue and (2) effective treatment of psoriasis, in particular, is difficult and usually treated with very modern drugs - new ones arrive, it seems, on a weekly basis, eg Ustekinumab.
    So I am unsure what you expect to achieve.
    Foaming - for me - is a problematic idea because it implies using some kind of surfactant, and I don’t really like the idea of using a surfactant in a leave-on product, especially with damaged skin.
    My own opinion is that formulation of any product suitable for use with eczema or psoriasis is a project for an advanced formulator with dermatology experience. I wouldn’t attempt it myself, and I have five years of formulation experience and a deep interest in cosmeceuticals. And it wouldn’t be a marketable product because it would be a drug in FDA terms.

  • formulatorN00b

    August 27, 2018 at 11:51 pm

    Hi there, I just wanted to add some clarification to my intentions with my post. I’m not interested in marketing this product, it’s for my personal use of my skin condition.  I am on dermatologist approved treatment for my condition, however it does not keep me completely clear  High percentage niacinamide/nicotinamide products have previously worked well with my medication to keep my skin clear, they just are difficult to spread because they are watery and absorb too fast to apply everywhere that I need them.  They also don’t tend to layer very well.  

    That said, I agree the foaming aspect is problematic for compromised skin and I suspect I will have to go through a lot of trial and error with this.  I appreciate your input and I’ll see if I can find alternative options that may allow me to apply this active on a large part of my body without being tedious or excessively expensive.  

  • belassi

    August 27, 2018 at 11:56 pm

    OK, much clearer what you want to do. No reason not to try formulating a personal product.
    First you need to look at the viscosity of the product you want to apply. Is it thin like water? Thick like glycerin?
    Then you need to look at the ingredients. Is it polar (water based)? Lipid? Emulsion?
    For instance if it is water-thin you could perhaps use a mist bottle?

  • AVisotsky

    September 4, 2018 at 7:26 pm

    How about Betaine? I think it’s relatively safe to leave on topical?

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