Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Formulating a conditioner

  • Formulating a conditioner

    Posted by chemistdee on October 27, 2023 at 6:31 pm

    I formulated a conditioner and the end result is not as “smooth” as I’d like it to be. It starts out smooth but upon sitting becomes kind of lumpy. The quality of the product however is amazing, as a conditioner. Looking on advice on how to make it more smooth.

    Here is the formula:

    Phase A water phase:

    Tara gum 0.2%

    Glycerin 2%

    Sodium phytate 0.15%

    Water QS

    Phase B oil phase:

    btms50 2.5%

    cetyl alcohol 1.1%

    PCA glyceryl oleate 0.5%

    Avocado oil 0.5%

    Coco caprylate 1%

    Argan oil 1%

    Jojoba oil 0.25%

    Phase C (cool down) 40C:

    Silk amino peptides 1%

    Panthenol B5 0.5%

    Essential oils 0.8%

    Vitamin E 0.1%

    Optiphen plus 1%

    Phase A and B are heated to 75C. B is added to A and then mixed together at 9000 rpm high shear for 5 minutes, then gentle stirring until cool down. Cool down added at 40C. Final pH is 5.5 without adjusting.

    The issue I see is that the emulsion cools and thickens but as soon as I add the Optiphen plus it liquifies the product, which then thickens up after a few hours again.

    I am wondering if the Optiphen plus destabilizes the emulsion. It is smooth and buttery when mixing with a spatula but after sitting and then pouring, looks a bit lumpy.

    Any thought would be appreciated on how to make this formula better.

    PhilGeis replied 7 months, 2 weeks ago 3 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • ketchito

    October 28, 2023 at 4:41 pm

    Optiphen messes up with the viscosity of some emulsions. You could change your preservative if you want. Gums can also give not a pleasant look to emulsions. You could replace it by modified starches of just remove it and increase your fatty alcohol and btms.

  • PhilGeis

    October 28, 2023 at 5:40 pm

    Benzyl alcohol, Kathon and EDTA is a good combination.

Log in to reply.