Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Fast drying & smudge-free eyeliner

  • Fast drying & smudge-free eyeliner

    Posted by VinTec on September 27, 2023 at 7:01 am

    Hi there!

    I’m working on some makeup formulations, and I’m having some difficulties with developing a fast drying and smudge-proof eyeliner. Here’s the formula:

    PHASE 1

    Water - q.s 100%

    Gltcerin - 2%

    Aristoflex AVC (Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) - 0,50%

    PHASE 2

    Amphisol K (Potassium Cetyl Phosphate) - 4%

    Dicaprylyl Ether - 12%

    Dodecane - 3%

    Black iron oxide dispersion in oil - 14,3%

    PHASE 3

    Alcohol Denat. - 15%

    PHASE 4

    Belsil TMS 803 (Trimethylsiloxylicate) - 4%

    PHASE 5

    Silica - 6%

    PHASE 6

    Preservative blend - 1%

    The thing is, when I apply it, it takes a while to dry and it also smudges really easily. We have some products that are sold in the local market (I’m from Latam) and when I apply them, they dry really fast and they also don’t smudge.

    Does anyone have suggestions on how I can reduce the drying time and smudge effect of this formulation? I don’t know if it’s safe to increase the alcohol concentration… Maybe adding a volatile silicone or incresing the concentration of dodecane (which it’s volatile) could make it dry faster, but I don’t know how I could reduce the smudge effect.

    All suggestions are welcome!

    Thank you in advance 🙂

    chemicalmatt replied 6 months, 4 weeks ago 3 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • Marsupilami

    October 30, 2023 at 10:19 pm

    To see any transfer-proof properties, the non-volatile oil must be reduced to no more than 5%. And that encompasses your oil-dispersed pigment as well. Also, try increasing the TMS. Experiment with 6, 8 and 10% and see how it goes.

  • chemicalmatt

    November 3, 2023 at 9:12 am

    I will add that the primary polymer film-former Artistoflex is at a very low level especially considering that is only 30% active if memory serves. Also, glycerin works against alcohol evaporation so DEL that. Finally, Amphisol K is a very powerful emulsifier and 4.0% is twice what you need especially if reducing those oils as @Marsupilami suggests. Being a powerful surfactant, it also contributes to that “smudge factor” you are trying to omit.

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