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Fast drying & smudge-free eyeliner
Hi there!
I’m working on some makeup formulations, and I’m having some difficulties with developing a fast drying and smudge-proof eyeliner. Here’s the formula:
PHASE 1
Water - q.s 100%
Gltcerin - 2%
Aristoflex AVC (Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) - 0,50%
PHASE 2
Amphisol K (Potassium Cetyl Phosphate) - 4%
Dicaprylyl Ether - 12%
Dodecane - 3%
Black iron oxide dispersion in oil - 14,3%
PHASE 3
Alcohol Denat. - 15%
PHASE 4
Belsil TMS 803 (Trimethylsiloxylicate) - 4%
PHASE 5
Silica - 6%
PHASE 6
Preservative blend - 1%
The thing is, when I apply it, it takes a while to dry and it also smudges really easily. We have some products that are sold in the local market (I’m from Latam) and when I apply them, they dry really fast and they also don’t smudge.
Does anyone have suggestions on how I can reduce the drying time and smudge effect of this formulation? I don’t know if it’s safe to increase the alcohol concentration… Maybe adding a volatile silicone or incresing the concentration of dodecane (which it’s volatile) could make it dry faster, but I don’t know how I could reduce the smudge effect.
All suggestions are welcome!
Thank you in advance 🙂
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2 Replies
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To see any transfer-proof properties, the non-volatile oil must be reduced to no more than 5%. And that encompasses your oil-dispersed pigment as well. Also, try increasing the TMS. Experiment with 6, 8 and 10% and see how it goes.
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I will add that the primary polymer film-former Artistoflex is at a very low level especially considering that is only 30% active if memory serves. Also, glycerin works against alcohol evaporation so DEL that. Finally, Amphisol K is a very powerful emulsifier and 4.0% is twice what you need especially if reducing those oils as @Marsupilami suggests. Being a powerful surfactant, it also contributes to that “smudge factor” you are trying to omit.
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