Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Off Topic Fact, fiction, reality, perception of starches in deodorant

  • Fact, fiction, reality, perception of starches in deodorant

    Posted by Graillotion on January 21, 2022 at 2:35 am

    So, I have collaborated with a couple fine friends on the forum to make a very effective deodorant cream.  Something I think I can say…..is way out there on the cutting edge.  I was unable to find even a slightly similar product on the market, that included the multiple synergies we came up with….all that aside…there is only one area we did not entirely agree on.

    STARCH

    So, if one were to look at 100 Indie (deo) brands…I think 98 of them would have some form of starch in them.  When looking at our project, the two sharper knives in the drawer (this means I was excluded) said….starch brings essentially no value to the formula.  So, I would like people to weigh in… Are the Indie brands just clueless (I am totally on board with this concept), and using starch as a ‘claim’ ingredient, because some people expect it, and those that aren’t expecting it….don’t mind that it is in there?

    I will mention I usually formulate with starch….but this is mainly for haptics.  

    In the deo project, I am looking at a (high temp) starch that will not gel in the product, and hopefully enhance haptics, and increase a dry and silky feel in the pits.

    Please contribute anything that comes to mind….from the possibility that it might consume the fragrance of the product, to whatever aspect you think I might have overlooked.

    If it provides no functional value….does it provide ‘claim’ value?  I am looking at a Rice (possibly Risotto) Starch from @chemicalmatt s 3V Sigma.  If everyone concurs it provides little or no function, but does provide some ‘claim’ value, then I will stick with the much cheaper arrowroot starch.

    Remember….this is a cream deo…not a stick.  Emulsified at 80-83C.

    Oh..and maybe I should say…inclusion rate is right around 2%.

    The oil phase is essentially: CCT, TEC, LL, IL and squalane wax….so very emollient.  And like most of my formulas…finished with a kiss of dimethicone, a splash of cyclomethicone, and a dusting of Polymethylsilsesquioxane.

    PhilGeis replied 2 years, 3 months ago 3 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • Pattsi

    Member
    January 22, 2022 at 7:38 am

    I don’t see a point of adding 2% of claim ingredient, usually at 0.1 is more than enough, unless you want to claim the actual 2% in label and marketing.

    We add expensive fancy stuff for claim, not cheaper one.

    Not sure about starch as high as 2% in deo cream. It might absorb sweat and sebum and sit there then start to stink after 2-4 hrs. You might get a wet gluey rather than dry and silky feel, it will depend on individual too and have to consider the climate where your customers base as well.

    I see some brands go with arrowroot.

     Are the Indie brands just clueless 

    I don’t think they are totally clueless, natural deo works to some extent though not as good as antiperspirant, but most of indie to midsized brand want to put out natural deo.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 22, 2022 at 12:34 pm

    Hard to separate indie brand BS from its occasional innovation.  They’re primarily formulated around a “hero” ingredient (and “aluminum-free” claim) rather than practical efficacy.

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