Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Facewash moisturizer

  • Facewash moisturizer

    Posted by amitvedakar on November 10, 2019 at 5:35 am
    which ingredients are useful as moisturizer for face wash?
    one in mind is Glycerin.
    PG, Vit. E. Acetate, Arbutin are they useful?
    Ph=5 to 6.
    Other ingredients are  Glycollic acid, Sles, CocoBetain, Polyquote-7, coco amphoacetate, cocoamide DEA,  GHTC, Preservatives.

    Deep cleansing without drying skin possible?

    amitvedakar replied 4 years, 6 months ago 8 Members · 12 Replies
  • 12 Replies
  • Gurnanda

    Member
    November 10, 2019 at 7:44 am

    Have you use hyalurinic acid? When added to cosmetic formulations, Sodium Hyaluronate helps to increase the final product’s stability and to reduce the probability of oxidization. Cleansers and moisturizers that are enriched with this hydrating agent will not leave the skin with an oily residue. 
    Due to its inclination to form clumps when its introduce to water, SH can first be blend with Glycerine befire being added to water. This will prevent clumping and encourage a smooth blend. Or alternatively it could simply add directly to water, covered, give it time to hydrate and after which it can be mixed well. If you work with a largel volume, it could add directly to water using stick immersion blender, stir it until the consistency thicken.

  • amitvedakar

    Member
    November 10, 2019 at 8:04 am
    Nice Idea. have not thought about SH. well 0.4%  SH with 50:50- HMW:LMW is ok? will also thicknen? Right?
    Thank you @Gurnanda
  • Aziz

    Member
    November 10, 2019 at 2:48 pm

    which ingredients are useful as moisturizer for face wash?
    one in mind is Glycerin.
    PG, Vit. E. Acetate, Arbutin are they useful?
    Ph=5 to 6.
    Other ingredients are  Glycollic acid, Sles, CocoBetain, Polyquote-7, coco amphoacetate, cocoamide DEA,  GHTC, Preservatives.

    Deep cleansing without drying skin possible?

    Why Polyquate 7 ?

  • Gunther

    Member
    November 10, 2019 at 5:26 pm

    Most moisturizers are useless in rinse off applications.
    They have too little time to act to do anything useful before being rinsed off and end up in the drain.

    Cationics, i.e. some Polyquaternium, PEG-7 Glyceryl cocoate or Cocamide DEA may have some modest skin conditioning or refattening properties, but make sure they don’t leave a sticky afterfeel.

  • Aziz

    Member
    November 10, 2019 at 5:56 pm

    Gunther said:

    Most moisturizers are useless in rinse off applications.
    They have too little time to act to do anything useful before being rinsed off and end up in the drain.

    Cationics, i.e. some Polyquaternium, PEG-7 Glyceryl cocoate or Cocamide DEA may have some modest skin conditioning or refattening properties, but make sure they don’t leave a sticky afterfeel.

    Polyquate 7 leave a thin film like feeling on skin . I think if it is used in face washes it may leave a comedogenic affect on face . 

  • OldPerry

    Member
    November 11, 2019 at 3:48 am

    @Gunther is correct. Most anything that would have moisturizing effects will be washed away by the surfactants. Glycerin certainly will be washed away. Cleansers are designed to remove things from the skin. 

    PQ7 might plate out by not enough to leave a continuous film on the skin. I don’t think you have to worry about PQ7 being comedogenic.

  • amitvedakar

    Member
    November 11, 2019 at 4:42 am
    So, Vitamin & other actives are only claim ingredients for face wash.
    @parry, @Gunther. Thank you all.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    November 11, 2019 at 4:49 am

    Yes, pretty much just claims ingredients

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 11, 2019 at 12:48 pm

    There is one little exception from this rule I believe. Hydrolysed proteins are quite useful in face washes, not because they moisturise the skin (as brands usually claim) but because they create a film that reduces the harshness of surfactants. As per my understanding, the film doesn’t stay on the face.

  • Gene

    Member
    November 12, 2019 at 2:17 am

    I second the PEG 7 Glyceryl Cocoate as @Gunther mentioned. Makes an average facial wash feel more elegant and moisturizing.

  • Cst4Ms4Tmps4

    Member
    November 13, 2019 at 12:30 am

    To save money and headache, use nonionic and amphoteric surfactants such as Polysorbates and Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

    PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a foam killer but leaves feelable and noticeable ‘film’ but not sticky nor slippery. Just another ‘lipid’, kinda like so-called “oil cleanse”. Some call it ‘refattening’.

    However, nonionic surfactants are known to f*ck up ionics (especially anionic surfactants). Anionic thickeners such as Xanthan Gum and Carboxy Methyl Cellulose (CMC) will not work well in the presence of nonionic surfactant. You may see everything is cool this second, the next second viscosity drops!

    I have nonionic thickener (Hydroxy Ethyl Cellulose or HEC) but I have not tried it to see the effect as I stick to Xanthan Gum. I sort of idolise Xanthan Gum because it hardly has fish eye, need not hard mixing/blending, and not troublesome as to pre-mix it with oil, Propylene Glycol, and other no-water substances. Makes sense to me as the bacteria needs to be properly and uniformly hydrated, and efficiently and quickly. The final product has weird texture, odour, colour but are okay because I am not doing it commercially.

    Nooooooo! Never use Sodium Hyaluronate or Silica as thickener! These are exorbitant materials! I once wanted to use Silica (Fumed Silica. Aerosil 200) as thickener, but Evonik says no one in their right mind actually uses Silica, either hydrophobic or hydrophilic, as thickener because it must be used a lot making formulation insanely expensive.

    Similar to the nonionic-anionic surfactant conundrum, the interaction of other ingredients/substances makes things challenging, if not very challenging. Something to do with what is called ‘shielding effect’. This is the reason why some people in this community play the broken record about knockout test.

    https://chemistscorner.com/do-you-know-the-fastest-way-to-become-an-expert-cosmetic-formulator/

    I still ask questions here and obtain brilliant answers, but ultimately I still have to test things out on my own. Whatever the answers I get here can be very different to the answers I discovered by myself, as if I was conned by the people here! Hahahahaha! For example many people complain about Polysorbates, and some people said Glycerol/Glycerin leaves slippery residue even after being washed, it does not happen to me nor anyone over here (where I live). Might be due to temperature.

    Perry is correct. Polyquaternium-7 is not useful. It may work for you if you use lots of it, just maybe. Cationic Guar and Polyquaternium-10 are most effective, these really work. However, these still do not actually moisturise the skin. A dedicated moisturiser (not 2-in-1) is still the winner!

    Don’t fully believe what manufacturers say. They are doing business and they want your money. Speak to technical people perhaps as they are not into sales so much as proper salespeople. It is weird when you ask the ‘how’ they ask you to pay up and use their service instead. It is weird when you want to know the ‘why’ they tell you to use another of their product. They don’t know jack sh*t.

    Knockout Experiments for Cosmetics - The Fastest Way to Become an Expert Formulator

  • amitvedakar

    Member
    November 13, 2019 at 5:40 am

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