Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Face Wash and gums

  • Face Wash and gums

    Posted by cmarie on April 15, 2021 at 2:23 pm

    I am having issues with separation as well as building some viscosity in a face wash.   Our biggest obstacles are that we are only open to changing 1-2 ingredients in the INCI as this is an existing product and the product is certified organic.   

    Our most stable formula so far is as follows, though the viscosity is still alittle low.  
    75% Liquid Soap Base (40% Potassium Cocoate  / 60% water)
    15% Apple Juice
    8% glycerin
    ~1% guar
    ~1% oils / extract blend
    ~1% citrus fragrance

    Any suggestions to make this a little thicker but avoid separating? Thanks!

    RedCoast replied 3 years, 1 month ago 4 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    April 20, 2021 at 7:55 pm

    @cmarie reduce the apple juice LOTS: malic acid in there is reducing your pH, rendering K Cocoate insoluble, thus the separation problem. Reduce glycerin to nearly zero, that will build viscosity. As I’ve so often opined: what is glycerin good for in any body cleansing product? Zilch, that’s what.

  • RedCoast

    Member
    April 21, 2021 at 4:36 am

    @cmarie reduce the apple juice LOTS: malic acid in there is reducing your pH, rendering K Cocoate insoluble, thus the separation problem. Reduce glycerin to nearly zero, that will build viscosity. As I’ve so often opined: what is glycerin good for in any body cleansing product? Zilch, that’s what.

    I saw in one older dermatological publication somewhere (I can’t find it now, but I’ll post the link if I do) that stated <2% glycerin counteracts the potential drying effects of surfactants… but we have so many newer surfactants now, that’s no longer an issue.
    Yeah, you’re right: glycerin isn’t going to do a darn thing in cleansers. It’s just there to look attractive on the label in cleansers meant for dry and sensitive skin.
  • Abdullah

    Member
    April 21, 2021 at 12:56 pm

    @RedCoast was it %2 glycerin in cleaning product or in the Product that is used after cleaning? Like lotion or cream

  • RedCoast

    Member
    April 21, 2021 at 7:56 pm

    Abdullah said:

    @RedCoast was it %2 glycerin in cleaning product or in the Product that is used after cleaning? Like lotion or cream

    Yes, <2% in the cleansing product.
    Now, for leave-on products (lotions), glycerin is an effective humectant in concentrations of 2%-5%+ .
    You’ll see a few publications contradict each other on this (this one states glycerin is effective in 3%+ concentrations), but it all depends on the formulation.
    This publication states dimethicone (“silicone surfactants”) are effective surfactants that also function as emollients.

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