TKB trading sells a pre-made press base, but also check out their ling (https://tkbtrading.com/pages/blending-your-own-pressed-powder-base) which shows examples of pressing bases. From this list of ingredients, you can look up each one on their website & it’ll give a pretty good description of the benefits/actions. They are also excellent at answering questions. They also sell a few books, which may also help you in this area, as well as this link: https://tkbtrading.com/pages/pressed-powder-kit-instructions
I’ve made each of their examples stated in the website, and I find that a base containing boron nitride, silica microspeheres, magnesium myristate and nylon-12 make good additions to any base, unless the base already includes it. Even if it does, I always add a bit more boron nitride, silica microspehres & nylon-12….super silky, but too much Magnesium Myrstate make the finished product kind of hard. I find that both talc and kaolin clay offer great adhesion & blendability. For darker skin tones, I’d recommend the kaolin clay because it makes the final product more opaque.
In terms of creasing, using an eyeshadow primer is probably the best best, regardless of which pressed powder base you use. They sell them at all makeup stores and even in the cosmetic aisles of drugstores (they finally caught on!!! :wink:) The shadow primer on the TKB site is very white, so I don’t recommend it for darker-skinned tones, but the other retailers offer different shades/finishes and are more transparent.
And finally, in terms of fallout/kickback, I do have this issue still. It’s just a matter of experimenting with different formulas and tweaking them for personal preference… but the final products (in my case anyway) that have some fallout or kickback are usually the ones with the best color payoff.
Hope this helps somewhat!