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Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Eyeliner Drying

  • Eyeliner Drying

    Posted by chickenskin on August 26, 2019 at 4:52 pm
    Greetings talented chemists, I have been having difficulty getting this eyeliner to dry quickly (5-10 minutes).  
    This is how it’s listed on the back of the benchmark, from top to bottom.
    Castor Seed Oil  (My estimate - ~15%)
    Coconut Oil (My estimate - ~15%)
    Grapeseed Oil (My estimate - ~4%)
    Carnauba Wax (My estimate - ~3%
    Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Lanolin Replacement) (My estimate - ~3%)
    Silica (My estimate - ~3%)
    Candelilla Wax (My estimate - ~1%)
    Tocopherol (My estimate - ~0.1%)
    Preservative blend (Thyme, Rosemary, etc etc) (My estimate - ~1%)
    Iron Oxides (My estimate - ~40%)
    CI 77499
    CI 77491
    CI 77492
    If you can could you please take a look at this INCI deck and see what you would lean on to get the dry down accomplished?  The benchmark that uses this INCI deck dries down within 5-15 minutes.  Any help or guidance would be awesome.
    Thank you!
    chickenskin replied 3 years, 5 months ago 4 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • EVchem

    Member
    August 26, 2019 at 5:23 pm

    I’m not a color cosmetic formulator, but try lowering castor and increasing grapeseed? Try using just enough castor oil to disperse the oxides

  • chickenskin

    Member
    August 26, 2019 at 6:12 pm

    @EVchem

    Does Grapeseed dry differently?  Thanks!

  • EVchem

    Member
    August 26, 2019 at 7:32 pm

    @chickenskin grapeseed is a much drier feeling oil, it feels like it soaks into the skin whereas castor is viscous and feels like it is sitting on top of your skin 

  • chickenskin

    Member
    August 26, 2019 at 8:45 pm

    @EVchem

    okay awesome information to know thank you!

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 26, 2019 at 9:26 pm

    Can you use synthetics? I was going to say you need a film former but I don’t know much about natural ones.

  • chickenskin

    Member
    August 27, 2019 at 4:19 pm

    @ngarayeva001

    gotta stick to the ingredients.  :(

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 27, 2019 at 5:59 pm

    Can you share a link to your benchmark? Is it a paste or a liquid? I am not color cosmetic formulator but I made eyeliners a couple of times for my own use (mostly out of curiosity). 

  • chickenskin

    Member
    August 30, 2019 at 4:29 pm
  • Sil

    Member
    August 31, 2019 at 2:31 pm

    EVchem said:

    I’m not a color cosmetic formulator, but try lowering castor and increasing grapeseed? Try using just enough castor oil to disperse the oxides

    Hi @chickenskin,
    I agree with  @EVchem, in addition you can try increasing the amount of Silica that helps you with its oil absorption properties.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 31, 2019 at 10:20 pm

    You don’t have enough waxes for a paste. I think you should up it to at least 10%.

  • chickenskin

    Member
    September 3, 2019 at 5:48 pm

    You don’t have enough waxes for a paste. I think you should up it to at least 10%.

    this made a brick hahaha!!  i was doing better with the lower wax but ill update once I figured out the drying by adding more silica!