Eyeliner Drying - Chemists Corner

Formulating

Eyeliner Drying

Posted by chickenskin on August 26, 2019 at 4:52 pm

Greetings talented chemists, I have been having difficulty getting this eyeliner to dry quickly (5-10 minutes).

This is how it’s listed on the back of the benchmark, from top to bottom.

Castor Seed Oil (My estimate - ~15%)

Coconut Oil (My estimate - ~15%)

Grapeseed Oil (My estimate - ~4%)

Carnauba Wax (My estimate - ~3%

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Lanolin Replacement) (My estimate - ~3%)

Silica (My estimate - ~3%)

Candelilla Wax (My estimate - ~1%)

Tocopherol (My estimate - ~0.1%)

Preservative blend (Thyme, Rosemary, etc etc) (My estimate - ~1%)

Iron Oxides (My estimate - ~40%)

CI 77499

CI 77491

CI 77492

If you can could you please take a look at this INCI deck and see what you would lean on to get the dry down accomplished? The benchmark that uses this INCI deck dries down within 5-15 minutes. Any help or guidance would be awesome.

Thank you!

chickenskin replied 4 years, 7 months ago 4 Members · 11 Replies
11 Replies

EVchem

Member
August 26, 2019 at 5:23 pm

I’m not a color cosmetic formulator, but try lowering castor and increasing grapeseed? Try using just enough castor oil to disperse the oxides
chickenskin

Member
August 26, 2019 at 6:12 pm

@EVchem

Does Grapeseed dry differently? Thanks!
EVchem

Member
August 26, 2019 at 7:32 pm

@chickenskin grapeseed is a much drier feeling oil, it feels like it soaks into the skin whereas castor is viscous and feels like it is sitting on top of your skin
chickenskin

Member
August 26, 2019 at 8:45 pm

@EVchem

okay awesome information to know thank you!
ngarayeva001

Member
August 26, 2019 at 9:26 pm

Can you use synthetics? I was going to say you need a film former but I don’t know much about natural ones.
chickenskin

Member
August 27, 2019 at 4:19 pm

@ngarayeva001

gotta stick to the ingredients.
ngarayeva001

Member
August 27, 2019 at 5:59 pm

Can you share a link to your benchmark? Is it a paste or a liquid? I am not color cosmetic formulator but I made eyeliners a couple of times for my own use (mostly out of curiosity).
chickenskin

Member
August 30, 2019 at 4:29 pm

@ngarayeva001

https://www.thedetoxmarket.com/collections/hush-dotti/products/hush-and-dotti-organic-gel-eyeliner

its a paste
Sil

Member
August 31, 2019 at 2:31 pm

EVchem said:

I’m not a color cosmetic formulator, but try lowering castor and increasing grapeseed? Try using just enough castor oil to disperse the oxides

Hi @chickenskin,
I agree with @EVchem, in addition you can try increasing the amount of Silica that helps you with its oil absorption properties.
ngarayeva001

Member
August 31, 2019 at 10:20 pm

You don’t have enough waxes for a paste. I think you should up it to at least 10%.
chickenskin

Member
September 3, 2019 at 5:48 pm

ngarayeva001 said:

You don’t have enough waxes for a paste. I think you should up it to at least 10%.

this made a brick hahaha!! i was doing better with the lower wax but ill update once I figured out the drying by adding more silica!