Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Skin ester or triglyceride?

  • ester or triglyceride?

    Posted by belassi on January 22, 2016 at 11:49 pm

    I am in experiment #3 testing the vitamin C (trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate) and have a basis for a product, possibly. So far I’m at 1 week at room temp in an unsealed pot and no sign of discoloration. The rest of the test batch is in the lab refri.

    Experiment #2 failed because I did not realise that a carbomer gel would immediately oxidise the active and render it useless.
    Experiment #3 is a relatively simple emulsion, albeit with elevated levels of some components that I have some reason to believe will improve stability. Basically:
    water q/s
    stearic acid 2%
    cetyl alc 2%
    cap/capr triglycerides 3%
    vitamin E 0.5%
    chia oil (60% omega 3) 2%
    cetearyl alc 4%
    primary active + other actives 3.5%
    PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate
    Now, this produces a light cream with a high gloss that is a little too light in fact, because it takes two or three days to settle down and gell so as not to spill if tipped. I’ve got a good idea to fix that problem. The sensorials are great in that the water content seems to absorb very fast, but my remaining issue is that the lipids take around 15-20 minutes to absorb properly and I’d like to speed this up.
    The chia oil is an active too, so I want to keep it. Now, I have a sample of Schercemol ester 185, which is a very light ester. My specific question is: which is likely to absorb faster? The triglycerides or the ester?
    belassi replied 8 years, 4 months ago 1 Member · 0 Replies
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