Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Emulsifier System for Skincare Serum

  • Emulsifier System for Skincare Serum

    Posted by DIYLexa on June 13, 2023 at 1:09 pm

    Dear Chemist’s Corner Community,

    I hope this message finds you well.

    I am currently in the process of crafting a new skincare serum. At the moment, the composition of my product incorporates less than 5% of oil-soluble actives, while the remaining majority are water-soluble. With this ratio, I’m seeking your guidance on the type of emulsifier that would be most suitable to achieve a clear consistency.

    Considering the small proportion of oil, I’m wondering if an emulsifier is actually essential for creating an elegant final product. Would the addition of a thickener alone possibly be sufficient?

    There’s also an additional concern related to the inclusion of Zinc PCA in my formula, which stands at 1%. I’ve noticed that this ingredient tends to destabilize all carbomer emulsifiers I’ve experimented with so far (namely, Sepimax ZEN and Sepinov EMT10). While BergaMuls ET 1 allows for a stable emulsion, it unfortunately lends a “natural cosmetics” appearance and feel to the serum which doesn’t align with the aesthetic and sensory experience I’m targeting - that being a clear, elegant consistency.

    I would deeply appreciate any insights, recommendations, or suggestions you might have of how to choose a proper emulsifier. Ideally it would be easy to use and does not require heating. Thank you in advance for your time and assistance in this matter.

    Attached picture is the one with BergaMuls ET1.

    Warm Regards.


    • This discussion was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by  DIYLexa.
    Paprik replied 5 months, 2 weeks ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • Paprik

    June 13, 2023 at 2:10 pm

    If you are looking for clear aka transparent concoction you should look for solubiliser for the oil phase. However if you are using 5% lipid that might be too much.

    Some gums might hold a small lipid input too.

    I am surprised that Sepimax Zen did not pass? I made Glycolic acid serum with it [huge load of electrolytes] and it was just fine. It has never failed me.

    Maybe share you full formula and we will be able to help you more.

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