Emulsifier for an “anhydrous” serum that really is an emulsion
I am formulating face serums made entirely of plant carrier oils, super-critical CO2 extracts and ethanol-water extracts (tinctures). For example:
87.5% Carrier Oils
5% CO2 supercritical extracts
6.5% Ethanol-Water Extracts
0.7% Polyglycerol-3 Beeswax (emulsifier)
0.3% Benzyl Alcohol DHA (preservative)
The amount of water varies based on the extract. Let’s say the average overall is 3.3% water and 3.2% ethanol. The ethanol-water extracts should be miscible with oils however they are not.
I decided to add polyglycerol-3 beeswax as an emulsifier because manufacturer states it can be a low HLB emulsifier used between 0.1% - 2%. It does seem to emulsify the formula but I am ready to stability test and challenge test this as a product. I have questions /concerns prior to testing:
1. I heat process polyglycerol-3 beeswax with 1 carrier and add it to the rest of the carriers cold. As soon as I add it to cold oils, it forms agglomerates - clumps or thick ropes. After high-shear mixing they mostly go away but I am not sure how stable the emulsion is? One formula has lasted 6 weeks at room temperature so far.
3. Can anyone suggest a better emulsifier for an oil-based formula that has such little amount of water? Or can anyone suggest a better process to assemble the formula without the emulsifier clumping? Thanks.
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