Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Skin Emollients that are solvents in relation to very sensitive skin.

  • Emollients that are solvents in relation to very sensitive skin.

    Posted by Graillotion on December 18, 2022 at 9:45 am

    Sometimes my light (intellect) is dim, and it comes on very slowly, but I usually get there eventually.  

    I co-developed a deodorant (emulsified cream) for ultra sensitive skin, with myself being the ultra sensitive test subject.  As I, with the help of my intellectual sounding boards,  have finally come up with a possible conclusion.  (Let me preface by saying, the current product is a 98% reduction in irritation over ANY commercial non-aerosol product I have ever tried.)  The conclusion I/we have arrived at, is that some of the emollients be sold are also strong solvents.  These strong solvents cannot distinguish what we want solvated, hence they are sometimes doing their work on our sebum.  In a situation where skin is very sensitive, the reduction/removal of this sebum protection can lead to enhanced irritability from ingredients we would not normally consider irritations.

    So if this is correct…(no guarantee…still in theory stage)… What are some of the best emollients for a deo…. (for me….best would be dry, and possibly even volatile) that bring the emolliency without bringing the solvent aspect?  Do they exist?

    Here is what I have on hand, but open to new things….but easier to work with what I have: (And yes…some of these are just straight up solvents!)

    D5
    Isoamyl laurate

    lauryl laurate

    Cetearyl Isononanoate
    Isononyl Isononanoate
    Isostearyl Isostearate

    Dicaprylyl Carbonate

    IPM


    Isododecane
     Undecane and Tridecane
    PPG-15 Stearyl Ether
    C12-13 Alkyl Lactate
    Caprylyl Methicone
    Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

    Cetyl palmitate

    I did leave out some other common ones I have…that I feel were too oily (like C12-15 AB, CCT, CCC, etc.

    SandalwoodBreeze replied 1 year, 5 months ago 3 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 29, 2022 at 5:59 am

    Well to answer my own question… 

    The strong solvent emollients are EXTREMELY IRRITATING to my pits.  I thought I was going to have to check into a burn unit after apply Cetiol Ultimate to my armpit.

    After wearing out the DHL driver, from Thailand to Hawaii….I have found some of the most delightful emollients….and way too many disgusting ones.

    My keepers are…and in order of most favorite to least:

    .5 (point 5) cSt highly volatile dimethicone

    D5

    ETHYLHEXYL (Octyl) ISONONANOATE ….and if ANYONE can link me a small MOQ supplier of this…I would be eternally grateful!!!!  (preferably USA)

    Dicaprylyl Carbonate

    Isononyl Isononanoate

    honorable mention….for MUCH richer applications:

    Isostearyl Isostearate

    And I am trying to learn to love… C12-15 AB.

  • GeorgeBenson

    Member
    December 29, 2022 at 10:57 am

    Could you expand on your thoughts on Isononyl Isononanoate and isostearyl isostearate? 

    is Isononyl Isononanoate one that you would put in the disgusting category?

    What were the pros/cons of these two and which applications do you think they’d be best suited for?

    And what did you like so much about D5?

    I am happy with c12-15 but i like experimenting…

  • GeorgeBenson

    Member
    December 29, 2022 at 11:02 am

    btw have you ever tried Cetyl Ethylhexanoate?

  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 29, 2022 at 8:24 pm

    btw have you ever tried Cetyl Ethylhexanoate?

    Yes…notes say:  Oily and slow absorbing.

    My skin is pretty good at making EVERYTHING appear as slow absorbing.  I can test the same emollient on my other half…and poof…it is gone.  Put it on me…and it will puddle for 15 min.  So if it disappears quickly on me…you are already in a special category.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 29, 2022 at 8:31 pm

    Could you expand on your thoughts on Isononyl Isononanoate and isostearyl isostearate? 

    is Isononyl Isononanoate one that you would put in the disgusting category?

    What were the pros/cons of these two and which applications do you think they’d be best suited for?

    And what did you like so much about D5?

    I am happy with c12-15 but i like experimenting…

    Isononyl Isononanoate …is a much lighter texture than isostearyl isostearate.  Simply put….I would add isostearyl isostearate….to anything where the word ‘rich’ or ‘richness’ was in the marketing.

    In the back of my mind….(and I had seen this once before on an inci)…and I have not put this together yet….as I am working on something else…but I envision perfection as…. 2 parts Dicaprylyl Carbonate with one part Isononyl Isononanoate.  Of course the supporting cast will make all the difference.  Keeping in mind…I am drawn to the non greasy…lite as air…non shiny type things….. So, you might hate that!  :D

    D5….the volatility (without irritation).  But hey….just got something that takes that to a whole new level. 

  • SandalwoodBreeze

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 10:15 am

    @Graillotion I always seem to have very similar opinions to your observations and favorite ingredients. I’ve been playing around with some new stuff from MSR the past few days and just this morning (before seeing your post) wrote down a concept formulation with Dicaprylyl Carbonate being the larges part of the oil phase and IsoN-IsoN being in there at about that ratio ????

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