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Ecosilk
Hi! Does anyone have any experience of using “Ecosilk” (Isoamyl Laurate and Isoamyl Cocoate) in trying to reduce soaping/micro foaming in O/W emulsions??
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10 Replies
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I’ve used an equivalent with the same INCI (Gosulin IL) and didn’t notice any soaping in those emulsions. Are you trying to avoid silicones? If not, nothing beats dimethicone for this purpose.
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Hi LincsChemist.
Thank you so much for your kind reply..
I dont have anything specifically against Dimethicone.. just hard to get hold of- well, just extortionate shipping costs for the amount I need for experimenting.
I have used Cyclomethicone with a lot of success, but I read that there are a lot of people that have a negative view of all the “cones”…
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Isoamyl Laurate I have used with good success. There are many natural silicone replacements now eg Lexfeel natural, Ecosil, Silc Oliv, you could even try C5 celtiol- coco-caprylate??Good luck!
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bibsy said:Hi! Does anyone have any experience of using “Ecosilk” (Isoamyl Laurate and Isoamyl Cocoate) in trying to reduce soaping/micro foaming in O/W emulsions??I have found that avoiding the products known for soaping to begin with is the easiest way to overcome soaping….namely stearic acid and your emulsifier of choice. Then the nominal soaping that might remain is easily controlled with the less effective soaping reducers like IL. I have a formula I am putting the wraps on…and it contains 2% Daikon seed extract, 6% IL and 4% Ethylhexyl palmitate, zero stearic and Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate as the primary emulsifier = Zero soaping.
Sometimes if you put the country that you live in, when having trouble finding ingredients, members from that area can help you find a supplier. -
I guess it all depends on cost and accessibility! and the experiments you are trying.
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In theory, Ecosilk and the like can’t do what silicones do with regard to soaping.They do feel nice and somewhat ‘silicony’ (not exactly like silicones IMHO) but they are polar ester oils whereas silicones reduce soaping because they are even more lipophilic than common oils such as triglycerides, waxes, and petrochemicals. For that reason, silicones are used as antifoaming agents. That’s based on the rational explanation for soaping (which is actually ‘foaming’) though there are other effects observed which are colloquially described as soaping and with these, anything might help, some ingredients better than others. Isoamyl laurate and other polar ester oils which are highly spreading and quickly absorbing don’t reducing soaping per se, but do counteract two reasons why a potentially soaping formulation is brought to ‘foam’; they reduce rubbing force needed to apply the product and they reduce the time needed for the product to absorb. Again in theory, using squalane or better yet undecane/tridecane, would be a wiser strategy… -
Pharma Again in theory, using squalane or better yet undecane/tridecane, would be a wiser strategy…
Just curious…what is the science behind squalane working? Just better spread and absorption?
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Absorption is good but spread ain’t thaaat superb, still feels great
. Anyway, yes, basically it’s that plus the fact that it’s a hydrocarbon. Like undecane and co. it’s on the very end of lipophilic/nonpolar when neglecting silicones. -
I’ve been using the Gosulin IL from the Gracefruit.co.uk, but honestly it is not my favourite emollient. I’ve found it a bit heavy and slow absorbing, also the skin tends to shines, especially on the face. The strange thing is that it contain about 95% Isoamyl Laurate, but i’ve been using pure Isoamyl Laurate (Esteroil from Alexmocosmetic) and it was quite different. The pure Isoamyl Laurate is light and actually a great emollient, but the Gosulin IL is not.
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ggpetrov said:I’ve been using the Gosulin IL from the Gracefruit.co.uk, but honestly it is not my favourite emollient. I’ve found it a bit heavy and slow absorbing, also the skin tends to shines, especially on the face. The strange thing is that it contain about 95% Isoamyl Laurate, but i’ve been using pure Isoamyl Laurate (Esteroil from Alexmocosmetic) and it was quite different. The pure Isoamyl Laurate is light and actually a great emollient, but the Gosulin IL is not.
I second this opinion….I was using both in sample formulations…and when I skin tested them alone, there was a marked difference, with the advantage going to the 100% IL. Could not agree more!!!
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