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Duplicating A Formula Assistance Please
Hello all! I attempted to duplicate one of the most beautiful and pleasant hair leave in products I’ve ever tried. I failed lol. I had separation, but could tell from the top layer I was headed in the right direction. Is fixing this as simple as reducing the amount of oils or adding more glyceryl stearate, cetearyl, cetyl, and/or stearyl alcohol to save this small batch? How can I obtain a proper emulsion with just these ingredients? The brand has no other emulsifiers listed in their ingredients. See ingredients and my formula below:Water 71.75%Capric/Caprylic Triglycerides 6%Glycerin 4%Glyceryl Stearate 4%Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 4%Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 1%Stearyl Alcohol 1%Maltodextrin/VP
Copolymer 1%Cetyl Alcohol 1%Natural Fragrance .75%Glyceryl Caprylate .5%Mangifera Indica
(Mango) Seed Butter .5%Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil .5%Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter .5%Oat Hydrolized Extract .25%Neem Oil .20Fig Extract .10%Lexguard Natural MB Preservative 1.5% -
5 Replies
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There is 12.7g lipids and your emulsifier system is 4% glyceryl stearate and 1% stearyl alcohol. Not surprising it separated. Try adding say 2.5% of a high HLB emulsifier such as Polysorbate 20.
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Belassi said:There is 12.7g lipids and your emulsifier system is 4% glyceryl stearate and 1% stearyl alcohol. Not surprising it separated. Try adding say 2.5% of a high HLB emulsifier such as Polysorbate 20.
I figured that might be the issue. I’ll add the polysorbate 20 and get back to you. Thanks!
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Belassi said:There is 12.7g lipids and your emulsifier system is 4% glyceryl stearate and 1% stearyl alcohol. Not surprising it separated. Try adding say 2.5% of a high HLB emulsifier such as Polysorbate 20.Here is the original ingredient list from the product I am trying to duplicate. Can you tell me how they were able to get a thick emulsion with this formula? It does move at all but it is creamy and light and very nice.WaterCapric/Caprylic TriglyceridesGlycerinCetyl AlcoholButyrospermum Parkii (Shea) ButterFragrance (Essential Oil Blends)Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilStearyl AlcoholMaltodextrin/VP
CopolymerGlyceryl StearateGlyceryl CaprylateMangifera Indica
(Mango) Seed ButterCocos Nucifera (Coconut) OilNigella Sativa Seed
OilMelia Azadirachta Seed OilHibiscus Rosa-Sinensis Flower ExtractAloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceLinum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed OilAgave Tequilana Leaf ExtractCacao (Cocoa) Seed ButterShea Butter
Ethyl EstersTocopheryl AcetateTricholoma Matsutake ExtractHydrolyzed KeratinTheobroma Grandiflorum Seed ButterGlyceryl
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@creatorhealer2020 It depends on the type of emulsion you’re trying to make: if it’s an W/O emulsion, you’d need to increase the amount of Glyceryl stearate (emulsifier) and waxes, so you increase stabilty by increasing viscosity, If on the other hand, you want to create an O/W emulsion, then as @Belassi mentioned, you’d need to add a high HLB emulsifier like Polysorbate-20.
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ketchito said:@creatorhealer2020 It depends on the type of emulsion you’re trying to make: if it’s an W/O emulsion, you’d need to increase the amount of Glyceryl stearate (emulsifier) and waxes, so you increase stabilty by increasing viscosity, If on the other hand, you want to create an O/W emulsion, then as @Belassi mentioned, you’d need to add a high HLB emulsifier like Polysorbate-20.
Okay thank you! I think I will try increasing the Glyceryl Stearate.
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